tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10331457484373140042024-03-05T01:56:55.956-08:00Chiles and ChainringsThousands of kilometers of mexican backroads explored by belly and bicycleAlexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.comBlogger96125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-30102136461306672542011-11-15T13:55:00.000-08:002011-11-18T19:39:27.898-08:00Espinazo del Diablo<iframe width="480" height="270" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Ku6mFaDKyD4?fs=1" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe><br />"Shrimp, shrimp, shrimp, shrimp" so began my mantra after 20 km of being beaten in the face by some seriously nasty headwind on our way into the city of Durango. I couldn't wait to get to Mazatlan and the beach.<br /><br />Durango was a pleasant surprise and it wasn't for the chocolate cake and candied pecans I found either. I swear we were the only tourists in town and yet, with it's pedestrian streets and beautifully lit colonial buildings, Durango shone as if it had just been polished up for some international touristic event. Only there was no international event. Durango is just a lively and prosperous place. If it weren't for the fact that this capital actually sees snow in the winter I'd say that I'm shocked the place isn't full of gringo retirees. While we were excited to finally be turning onto the Ruta 40 which leads to the Espinazo del Diablo, we were also sad to be leaving this gem of a place. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4cm_cfb-D9z7YAwB66pm2DTmVrMLlhDGaZbAss3Xlafsd4moX5-ye9w9UtLVSz681tZpUZoddoa2O8eYWiIHLGjLzc3wIQis8eazoGRQrM3orGlo0PA24yB8-3HkjbNrYWxz8YO0_Tk/s1600/DSC00452.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz4cm_cfb-D9z7YAwB66pm2DTmVrMLlhDGaZbAss3Xlafsd4moX5-ye9w9UtLVSz681tZpUZoddoa2O8eYWiIHLGjLzc3wIQis8eazoGRQrM3orGlo0PA24yB8-3HkjbNrYWxz8YO0_Tk/s400/DSC00452.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676473566547487298" /></a> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkrW4vwLsr2ZVrDjL_jUY1p1tiv6MSE0wgZajDEE3VWMDpZWn7DV9gaUXmUtlJAoV_91a1mgHAweMXIcVs1qeKaT2B7fk8Su8mSHr1RYj58Qi_SxCTaf-hGef_P2yQNdqVdkRiAJdJc6o/s1600/IMG_3039.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkrW4vwLsr2ZVrDjL_jUY1p1tiv6MSE0wgZajDEE3VWMDpZWn7DV9gaUXmUtlJAoV_91a1mgHAweMXIcVs1qeKaT2B7fk8Su8mSHr1RYj58Qi_SxCTaf-hGef_P2yQNdqVdkRiAJdJc6o/s400/IMG_3039.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676477185396818002" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YvRLYzyfTidKPbpC1nNPTfb0Nnc0BSMd9Q-dlsK_YjCv5z-Gnh_ryrnf8E6GfnIhGTTpeSg9L5arEzLm3k_jZ3z6c6hJ6CBhaEGfnIW4Ff9lLrziN1CvE78qpGRIZqZuLO2krC34590/s1600/IMG_3034.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6YvRLYzyfTidKPbpC1nNPTfb0Nnc0BSMd9Q-dlsK_YjCv5z-Gnh_ryrnf8E6GfnIhGTTpeSg9L5arEzLm3k_jZ3z6c6hJ6CBhaEGfnIW4Ff9lLrziN1CvE78qpGRIZqZuLO2krC34590/s400/IMG_3034.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676477176288552930" /></a><br />Onward and upward we went only to be passed by at least a hundred local riders out for a Sunday ride. The folks were unusually accessible and curious for Mexican road riders, we exchanged stories and got the details about the ride that lay ahead. Most of them knew it intimately from an annual event arranged by Vagabu<a href="http://www.vagabundosdgo.com/"></a>ndos Durango that follows this route from Durango to Mazatlan in two days and attracts over 500 riders. Were were doing it in three and it was still plenty tough. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgug4XV6Lytrh8Ds1VrRxqeaFu_Xgn-RbuKn8w70J4ji42aLR6utx9bmuj-1I8Zv6Fl8CYeqGnA_r3yWYnI4FVl_0rxGHlVWseaIDCb61YGcwdVizoMyyFk9glY58lXTFtlXJbLkD0LzI/s1600/DSC00455.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgug4XV6Lytrh8Ds1VrRxqeaFu_Xgn-RbuKn8w70J4ji42aLR6utx9bmuj-1I8Zv6Fl8CYeqGnA_r3yWYnI4FVl_0rxGHlVWseaIDCb61YGcwdVizoMyyFk9glY58lXTFtlXJbLkD0LzI/s400/DSC00455.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676473563139245890" /></a><br />The second day we paralleled the new toll road for a good distance and then made it to the the heart of the reason we were there "the espinazo!". To say this road ribbons, undulates, or meanders is an understatement...sinuous curves- oh yes it is all of those things. You reach a point where you feel you should must begin your descent to the sea, but the road drops twists and then regains all of the altitude you just lost. It does this countless times for more than 40 kilometres. Granted you do gradually do lose some altitude, but the only thing that makes this loss feel rewarding is the sea of disappearing blue mountain ridges that wash out to the left of you as you make you way down the road. It takes a long time before the metres disappear easily. A man directing traffic around a bit of road constuction eggs us on with accolades as to our cycling prowess and how tough these hills are. Basil moans of how this might be the toughest downhill ever.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0metpvDTD7VtboHC0rQBZvQqhj_ncc-gKe2Kkl1rVGPtZWwJ1jNIxtVCUOIrlDdL_omYUodBguJAO_jrYJx7JQeAWlnRfqs9RM_iPzVqEUMHGBFLqpFBkd2t9Ut7LkjBG56Q0PAW1fk/s1600/IMG_3078.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0metpvDTD7VtboHC0rQBZvQqhj_ncc-gKe2Kkl1rVGPtZWwJ1jNIxtVCUOIrlDdL_omYUodBguJAO_jrYJx7JQeAWlnRfqs9RM_iPzVqEUMHGBFLqpFBkd2t9Ut7LkjBG56Q0PAW1fk/s400/IMG_3078.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676474600878233250" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9FnF8_VZjB0_z_QGOKDEB0bYmJDm-T-qKfyEBLNVLYY17pPDEAuCRmFA95U01dEzecGMmktHPOjLMYO5a_SqLaTZwAEkN7HJr-T0YxBMsPL9aOMCWAd93wAeVgtI9syBw9iseGeyTXs/s1600/IMG_3088.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii9FnF8_VZjB0_z_QGOKDEB0bYmJDm-T-qKfyEBLNVLYY17pPDEAuCRmFA95U01dEzecGMmktHPOjLMYO5a_SqLaTZwAEkN7HJr-T0YxBMsPL9aOMCWAd93wAeVgtI9syBw9iseGeyTXs/s400/IMG_3088.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676537561105351906" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDWLUSVbr6xCoHnA70DZe7aWNNdENW_qW-CgFHY8Vkf3UPl6LTvPUOtSMQOnvwn8_VsbIvyE6I_wSBz8OvcqVUSAGRGQcesAT2D5wSa9tEe9M1RywlaQq1mVzcw9Zv8Mt3-dZTrZACnQ/s1600/DSC00496.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDWLUSVbr6xCoHnA70DZe7aWNNdENW_qW-CgFHY8Vkf3UPl6LTvPUOtSMQOnvwn8_VsbIvyE6I_wSBz8OvcqVUSAGRGQcesAT2D5wSa9tEe9M1RywlaQq1mVzcw9Zv8Mt3-dZTrZACnQ/s400/DSC00496.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676540778795155650" /></a><br />And then all of a sudden we are at the sea and eating shrimp on the beach in Mazatlan.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVmpcwAZ0hYiiobKj0YlTUF0qV39RgF9S9mGCGrgwLKfZv-QxkAuF4MaTIjRhjN3aIUtnhaqx0__IWx-zJXQXok5yr2lBBa1KMaBYXcKs64XSc5wOyNPUTbvDxrWGYSWT0d-ffYyLQl8/s1600/IMG_2828.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqVmpcwAZ0hYiiobKj0YlTUF0qV39RgF9S9mGCGrgwLKfZv-QxkAuF4MaTIjRhjN3aIUtnhaqx0__IWx-zJXQXok5yr2lBBa1KMaBYXcKs64XSc5wOyNPUTbvDxrWGYSWT0d-ffYyLQl8/s400/IMG_2828.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675346615993944674" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVCDNfdI_gdK-vmpW1CF5bMr44OpzBYdeWoROvnTUqj3G_5WAbzYhRghVQmPjkdteXVPMMFpJHOEPF6MltxFsYB2KBqe1gvTrafgGX1ZLwsa_iJyaLaKUDLenbo0kwjxGgHMjGWFQYBc/s1600/IMG_3109.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibVCDNfdI_gdK-vmpW1CF5bMr44OpzBYdeWoROvnTUqj3G_5WAbzYhRghVQmPjkdteXVPMMFpJHOEPF6MltxFsYB2KBqe1gvTrafgGX1ZLwsa_iJyaLaKUDLenbo0kwjxGgHMjGWFQYBc/s400/IMG_3109.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676471145963613170" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgglZqU8aifEsBrce5pdZ9gFL5ezUdIJMTijTFgTGSnNpuquqjRyA-AekR177s80EpYZGlDmZdTD9PnCo8zofb8LijIUgKB5In35ZLXCBz3crGECPJhvhmg3ZLL9xfc0DBdlRzayy3o4Rg/s1600/IMG_3122.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgglZqU8aifEsBrce5pdZ9gFL5ezUdIJMTijTFgTGSnNpuquqjRyA-AekR177s80EpYZGlDmZdTD9PnCo8zofb8LijIUgKB5In35ZLXCBz3crGECPJhvhmg3ZLL9xfc0DBdlRzayy3o4Rg/s400/IMG_3122.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5676471141293614146" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-59840705888744133282011-11-14T15:59:00.000-08:002011-11-14T20:46:54.551-08:00The Plunder of Zacatecas<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3XCItybINKi0o3j0ti-Yp9kczUvaL9WFNu84rWXiYWcOlPVuXE44bqwsPBw83RF5gTZ7u9b0tAElVHTiC1JCm7YTllYj02Xtem7XWkz5idAh8zMKNfY6-uNd417qS1Z2Vi6qVZTVjFu4/s1600/IMG_2917.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3XCItybINKi0o3j0ti-Yp9kczUvaL9WFNu84rWXiYWcOlPVuXE44bqwsPBw83RF5gTZ7u9b0tAElVHTiC1JCm7YTllYj02Xtem7XWkz5idAh8zMKNfY6-uNd417qS1Z2Vi6qVZTVjFu4/s400/IMG_2917.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675060362654137202" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvr-lUxf047GxbXCKb8aanM6PF7YveUOxOJhpRZriC_iHbnBiY5mLG_rFSYoXQRJIIDKTf2TtCNtuwGp3P0spkDOXtUKkzXAfZOOlZFOK0ieeZA50MSlIXP4sZEA1yedauNEA-EbqXL4/s1600/IMG_2888.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvr-lUxf047GxbXCKb8aanM6PF7YveUOxOJhpRZriC_iHbnBiY5mLG_rFSYoXQRJIIDKTf2TtCNtuwGp3P0spkDOXtUKkzXAfZOOlZFOK0ieeZA50MSlIXP4sZEA1yedauNEA-EbqXL4/s400/IMG_2888.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675067641094392130" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgchbK66Q3A-0CdhPTxbl4upT426qVRtuxgAtSdJDI7HwKFMhJkJMb6LLv6eW1SCKhkstROVjEJjHwe3B0j8YxDJ6ytxIiX-PAmOhddLx417_EtGZgEYOVK8dY7x8wNLUKHofCI4C6Exfg/s1600/IMG_2904.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgchbK66Q3A-0CdhPTxbl4upT426qVRtuxgAtSdJDI7HwKFMhJkJMb6LLv6eW1SCKhkstROVjEJjHwe3B0j8YxDJ6ytxIiX-PAmOhddLx417_EtGZgEYOVK8dY7x8wNLUKHofCI4C6Exfg/s400/IMG_2904.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675067638981188594" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpI-wdKVuDAnqWrFyk5pzD-IaKrUoJJeA2ivhPz_dXb51bnpA0iUWRr5qhOt22Y-s-YK1vBZOLufbdY7ROLbM3i9urZINEP6qJRU6KVJYhvBSDusJezu-M6Ls2cKU5e3kv5MMLFLGmm-k/s1600/IMG_2870.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpI-wdKVuDAnqWrFyk5pzD-IaKrUoJJeA2ivhPz_dXb51bnpA0iUWRr5qhOt22Y-s-YK1vBZOLufbdY7ROLbM3i9urZINEP6qJRU6KVJYhvBSDusJezu-M6Ls2cKU5e3kv5MMLFLGmm-k/s400/IMG_2870.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675061812947764242" /></a><br />The canyon lands melt away behind us as the landscape yawns into a wide open high plateau. Fluffy fat cows graze all around us and signs for lienzo charro appear painted on the walls of most towns we pass through. I delight in seeing young men in big hats practicing their rope work while riding horseback on the the grassy banks between the cattle fences and the side of the road. It is obviously mating season for certain insects as the road itself is full of the carnage of millions of giant smashed grasshoppers. On top of almost every pile of smashed sex-craved bugs more grasshoppers gather to copulate. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHg7nAevoKWMfptbdeV2LYhjZBA4hXANJyZd6ZpxIgniciPBLg0v0N0Eo7XXqRrxqm10bFE-jf9-dKeNtvBBYeTxpBgYjZmcU3yyfrR0LGWwgGx14QyFFuXlXDFqUMmjXg6UAY8R8WYY/s1600/IMG_2909.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHg7nAevoKWMfptbdeV2LYhjZBA4hXANJyZd6ZpxIgniciPBLg0v0N0Eo7XXqRrxqm10bFE-jf9-dKeNtvBBYeTxpBgYjZmcU3yyfrR0LGWwgGx14QyFFuXlXDFqUMmjXg6UAY8R8WYY/s400/IMG_2909.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675060364838408098" /></a><br />In Fresnillo, we hope to see some Day of the Dead celebrations, but upon leaving our hotel and making our way to the main drag, we are left speechless by a river of of parents dragging their costumed kiddies to every store in sight silently begging for treats. My feelings are so terribly confused. I love seeing kids dressed up, and, there is no argument, Mexicans know how to rock a wicked costume, but to know that commercialism and the pursuit of candy had pushed such a rich and healing celebration completely into the background is, well, troublesome. Given that this day is actually All Soul's Day and not All Hallow's Eve - this feels like little more than a greedy commercial opportunity at the expense of a much profounder tradition.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhia1JvuO2uQItkPbrZNpvq76QHGL52xDZrzkwaRlDxiGX-nSoZPgBAXLkzz7Vru4nDSOEw6oX81RhRsAxo5byTc75Jo-0vZM8F328KODQKZebXWuNmVq7F_LQQunmEbrdIdnRgbUCNBwQ/s1600/DSC00403.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhia1JvuO2uQItkPbrZNpvq76QHGL52xDZrzkwaRlDxiGX-nSoZPgBAXLkzz7Vru4nDSOEw6oX81RhRsAxo5byTc75Jo-0vZM8F328KODQKZebXWuNmVq7F_LQQunmEbrdIdnRgbUCNBwQ/s400/DSC00403.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675061810388573666" /></a><br />And so on we ride into the wind and ever higher into the wide open expanse that is the centre of Zacatecas. Halfway down the road we find a traffic jam. A transport truck has turned over and lost all of its cargo. The cab is completely flattened and dozens of people are mucking about the boxes and broken glass salvaging any full bottles of beer they can carry. The driver is okay. As we arrive, fully drained, in Sombrerete home to some of Mexico's richest deposits of mineral ores. I can't help but think of the parallels between the plundering halloween wannabes of the previous day, our beer looters from the afternoon, and the plundering of the original conquistadors marauding about the Americas in search of gold and silver and any other grabable loot.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu4spvSWa9lz00UIp7BymTMkt9PZH8AZrYPUXJ-u7csJ4ncC-IBIBHCr2MQseblbmj8alsbkjWbaosauehwHry_W0EwHtqiReWPRZkj9A0_rUFam2PpJq13y-FNWzDvOXtATXb56zm4Q/s1600/IMG_3002.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 287px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu4spvSWa9lz00UIp7BymTMkt9PZH8AZrYPUXJ-u7csJ4ncC-IBIBHCr2MQseblbmj8alsbkjWbaosauehwHry_W0EwHtqiReWPRZkj9A0_rUFam2PpJq13y-FNWzDvOXtATXb56zm4Q/s400/IMG_3002.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675064837502556290" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKm3WjRGFhqH1RrhqXg6ucC5Gb98O3CMyvxPPfAtPBkAcZbvUxpk7d_dpZ-wJfy4O1X3ySTTK_OuqKJYStOK3XqNmJlM6ftjetj9sNTPaA67BexRFvp73I-1JmppTgQmmH1p6WhtsWy4/s1600/IMG_3011.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtKm3WjRGFhqH1RrhqXg6ucC5Gb98O3CMyvxPPfAtPBkAcZbvUxpk7d_dpZ-wJfy4O1X3ySTTK_OuqKJYStOK3XqNmJlM6ftjetj9sNTPaA67BexRFvp73I-1JmppTgQmmH1p6WhtsWy4/s400/IMG_3011.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5675075833205171202" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-16736218544662764702011-11-11T14:18:00.000-08:002011-11-12T16:09:22.609-08:00State Line Shuffle<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3d-XtQSY2iJCkilojnb_m9eZVT0oAUoLQu-FLqu4Lb1YazU81FmGNvlDVzQCEeYrjeWJ_wRgWQKG1R6TmiqnmJ2uTgInlj6y3X0jdzDgyjnI8hXsk8vsJ7MtlEqBClobYkRmcwAhFIk/s1600/DSC00329.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL3d-XtQSY2iJCkilojnb_m9eZVT0oAUoLQu-FLqu4Lb1YazU81FmGNvlDVzQCEeYrjeWJ_wRgWQKG1R6TmiqnmJ2uTgInlj6y3X0jdzDgyjnI8hXsk8vsJ7MtlEqBClobYkRmcwAhFIk/s400/DSC00329.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673985437031686098" /></a><br /> Things have a way of falling into proper scale when out in the mountains on your bike. With the sudden end to our Day of the Dead tour we decided to head north out of Guadalajara. No plan, no preconceptions, just the vague idea that we would ride over the Espinazo del Diablo from Durango to Mazatlan. Plucking along highway 23 we had a tough time shedding Jalisco. It felt a little like a game of state line peek-a-boo as we crossed from Jalisco to Zacatecas to Jalisco to Zacatecas to Jalisco to Zacatecas to Jalisco to Zacatecas. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FRlcT0LsRflemtDygDDUkiDLZWHB9R1MohnF4qGoCqtHQlcbg2ZhraeHYGmXhpPHh0SVM09utxXpoLAgl6JVcMMaSS3JHqGMXmZ94pPH50YjEgD4FNv6D4ToYiaRUWGwTKJ32lylWms/s1600/ale.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FRlcT0LsRflemtDygDDUkiDLZWHB9R1MohnF4qGoCqtHQlcbg2ZhraeHYGmXhpPHh0SVM09utxXpoLAgl6JVcMMaSS3JHqGMXmZ94pPH50YjEgD4FNv6D4ToYiaRUWGwTKJ32lylWms/s400/ale.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673966858660398018" /></a><br />It was at the end of our first day that our love affair with burritos began. Having pushed harder than we should have and riding well into the night we arrived to a plate sized burrito stuffed with everything in the kitchen. The burritos that followed were never quite the same, but plenty tasty for different reasons every time.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIEOA3CX61O4KH7C2tud7exn1cGI5SaPrBHVpM4kD6c2n1lZsgsUvJMrvHFIcTHe9TUI0lYlbWKA9a79nSULJk_q57VFHU_wxcvvdm5YTNJDxhPAuiOtIXe0CAeZiO_P8SsTzoDkqH0PY/s1600/IMG_3028.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIEOA3CX61O4KH7C2tud7exn1cGI5SaPrBHVpM4kD6c2n1lZsgsUvJMrvHFIcTHe9TUI0lYlbWKA9a79nSULJk_q57VFHU_wxcvvdm5YTNJDxhPAuiOtIXe0CAeZiO_P8SsTzoDkqH0PY/s400/IMG_3028.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673926066169546546" /></a><br />Down the road we met the town of Teul a pretty, proud, and much forgotten about pueblo magico. Tucked away between meandering state borders, many dirt roads, and rather isolating canyons and mountains this region flies somewhat under the radar of the authorities which makes it choice turf for moving illegal merchandise. Unfortunately, there have been some flare ups over who controls the area. The locals say everything has calmed down now, but poor public perception will hang on and keep even local tourists away for a long time. Walking the streets, it's tough not to be influenced by local pride in who they are and where they are from. For us the real find were "gordas de horno en hoja de roble" aka corn dough, cheese, and strained yogurt baked on an oak leaf in a wood burning oven. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7LXNpH_1ZSzR-RRQwPVTfz56ij5RwGyS_WRIl4i_ayqp-pzzIR8wsvwH_qWFBDzOG6TMCzyTgWub1-BxI-0BrjO0QeTxyXWhVtv3wNb7PgKqEolnTT8iJZqtJX7rOcYNIR4iMBPKuBDE/s1600/IMG_2878.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7LXNpH_1ZSzR-RRQwPVTfz56ij5RwGyS_WRIl4i_ayqp-pzzIR8wsvwH_qWFBDzOG6TMCzyTgWub1-BxI-0BrjO0QeTxyXWhVtv3wNb7PgKqEolnTT8iJZqtJX7rOcYNIR4iMBPKuBDE/s400/IMG_2878.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673961959420696274" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HmWIP_vgFfxrLIyMoInoM0QQ4VsOWAbxX0lFS5bT-YqeF_H_0ZQF-D8bUvK9kzw11w9_rCj0HfRNRz4tj8WOD9tlOyCN1Wy_egAAri0-BXfW3on6h2QmbRyDYAKUOsXaLl4uVKyFqCs/s1600/IMG_2854.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HmWIP_vgFfxrLIyMoInoM0QQ4VsOWAbxX0lFS5bT-YqeF_H_0ZQF-D8bUvK9kzw11w9_rCj0HfRNRz4tj8WOD9tlOyCN1Wy_egAAri0-BXfW3on6h2QmbRyDYAKUOsXaLl4uVKyFqCs/s400/IMG_2854.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673975907334218690" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1rvBPhwugkEh35BtPzohHPFXC_564w05-uK2wmF-tn4D5eWb8lP02q0qGxfaQtWLHvDsETD52qdavul6bMm4rWWwpZ5sw6D_-IYMwxoJdR38Io_SVFiK1QtkMr4vaRTr6oRC_v2zAcE/s1600/IMG_2859.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1rvBPhwugkEh35BtPzohHPFXC_564w05-uK2wmF-tn4D5eWb8lP02q0qGxfaQtWLHvDsETD52qdavul6bMm4rWWwpZ5sw6D_-IYMwxoJdR38Io_SVFiK1QtkMr4vaRTr6oRC_v2zAcE/s400/IMG_2859.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673975914623693314" /></a><br />And then gorditas took front and centre stage. Chubby little corn or wheat disks patted into shape and then jammed with any variety of stews. It is tough to not stop at every roadside stand to sample each woman's rendition of carne deshebrada, picadillo, mole, or just plain and simple beans and cheese...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFmhlLSR-BYvHWgJjxTIT2rcuMEPscgexbGolzBtG_J5Yn-2oAGTfJ9sjTQLNIAIYmiBM7oUVoOBqflPh5UBiQddeHic5NdOx15L5Zm8hYe_gn_BGAdNAIeaaEekbH040Ie8k_v0ztr8/s1600/IMG_3071.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTFmhlLSR-BYvHWgJjxTIT2rcuMEPscgexbGolzBtG_J5Yn-2oAGTfJ9sjTQLNIAIYmiBM7oUVoOBqflPh5UBiQddeHic5NdOx15L5Zm8hYe_gn_BGAdNAIeaaEekbH040Ie8k_v0ztr8/s400/IMG_3071.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673926073716142914" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-34153483142903973602011-10-29T12:00:00.000-07:002011-10-29T12:00:00.875-07:00Guadalajara Bike Treats - the good and the betterOne thing that can be tough to find while bike touring in Mexico is a plateful of good veggies that you haven't put together yourself. Imagine our surprise at seeing snack carts like this stationed all over the centre of Guadalajara...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0SzZfGkih-6E3ZE0lU5zaIl-PpKNK6KLCSl1IeTA_hcURSzBDeTKQ-xJZ6-Yt-ZopflLM3nuLvtL5dFIVWLO-eNEQt7EQwlvSQ8wLNOfOa5wRJvl8MikWdu6kB6zoi2TSBrDfcXzGCY/s1600/guadsnack.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0SzZfGkih-6E3ZE0lU5zaIl-PpKNK6KLCSl1IeTA_hcURSzBDeTKQ-xJZ6-Yt-ZopflLM3nuLvtL5dFIVWLO-eNEQt7EQwlvSQ8wLNOfOa5wRJvl8MikWdu6kB6zoi2TSBrDfcXzGCY/s400/guadsnack.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668776478781392130" /></a><br />I felt all virtuous seeing the cyclist stopping in to refuel at one of these veggie carts. Could it be that through him I was vicariously living the healthy lifestyle misnomer that Basil and I have somehow perpetuated as professional bike tourists? Truth be told, this is what I truly crave post ride:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLpWsXpu8YL0lpAHYaS1O69wcMPEeDsVt3ynMcx-ZNZlmhzZXTjWpdp2O0swVZ5JZDyXCc9HatSycYPwU2YjNKnIsMPEK-BAGGydpn2cn6e2arsptJvl0ApebS7DfJop38BBLuws-MKA/s1600/churros.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgLpWsXpu8YL0lpAHYaS1O69wcMPEeDsVt3ynMcx-ZNZlmhzZXTjWpdp2O0swVZ5JZDyXCc9HatSycYPwU2YjNKnIsMPEK-BAGGydpn2cn6e2arsptJvl0ApebS7DfJop38BBLuws-MKA/s400/churros.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668779557329176722" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBKhPkw4Qh_x6cquuWvXkODsISWjlJgOZ4cNA0sJljdWpH6c5Tg5fPwHUsOxt3Sx4CkNE87jlT-s6lIxHJ25GbO6wtaRFnXU5608epcsQ5__W6NIh0MIvzMetCDfZl3xXLhDjFdGpcvA/s1600/churros2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHBKhPkw4Qh_x6cquuWvXkODsISWjlJgOZ4cNA0sJljdWpH6c5Tg5fPwHUsOxt3Sx4CkNE87jlT-s6lIxHJ25GbO6wtaRFnXU5608epcsQ5__W6NIh0MIvzMetCDfZl3xXLhDjFdGpcvA/s400/churros2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668779557017168498" /></a><br />Oh yeah, CHURROS! aka dough - hand kneaded, fried in fat, sliced open and filled with homemade caramel then rolled in sugar and cinnamon. So simple and yet when made by this trio of angels it is like ambrosia...<br /><br />Clearly I will never be a Pan Am games contender, but I can certainly take you to the best churros in town. God Bless these Guadalajaran churros makers. To sample these treats while in Guadalajara go two blocks up from the San Juan de Dios market kiddie corner from Hotel Azteca (any afternoon except Sunday). You won't regret it.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-78522875235392472802011-10-27T10:00:00.000-07:002011-10-27T10:00:00.619-07:00Change of Plans“Life is not orderly. No matter how we try to make it so, right in the middle of it we die, lose a leg, fall in love, or drop a jar of applesauce.” <br />--Natalie Goldberg<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0dSN3LYXPKb-D1jn568cx29Y83eZ4d9O1WRC-JUFOkgUrI6H0SCEkbgFELdzLGPUXS9o2Ra4D1sMp6EgTYmmjhSvEcT98n-144fFhlR-VpRsNIohlclGPMYCsXrN3H8ekl3XhkJi8GM/s1600/J%2526R.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 285px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT0dSN3LYXPKb-D1jn568cx29Y83eZ4d9O1WRC-JUFOkgUrI6H0SCEkbgFELdzLGPUXS9o2Ra4D1sMp6EgTYmmjhSvEcT98n-144fFhlR-VpRsNIohlclGPMYCsXrN3H8ekl3XhkJi8GM/s400/J%2526R.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667982421168795682" /></a><br />As planned we started out pedalling on our Day of the Dead Tour in the Meseta Purepecha, but, following the unexpected and sudden twists that life so readily hands out, we ended up in Guadalajara. Sad to be losing our riding partners who returned home to address family matters, Basil and I turned to embrace what new direction this change of events might lead us.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpp2KgT9ksTI7LQ3XUj6iZFTuTw36tJo7Pf1ORxXudAIxqFnRKol91lcrKY93JY7TzZl6rbbz04hqh_euQu30fmTFx9yBR5hJVpPfj0CbeADMsdGMRtW315BjH4AYnd0Tt-sgFSfFFkM/s1600/asun2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLpp2KgT9ksTI7LQ3XUj6iZFTuTw36tJo7Pf1ORxXudAIxqFnRKol91lcrKY93JY7TzZl6rbbz04hqh_euQu30fmTFx9yBR5hJVpPfj0CbeADMsdGMRtW315BjH4AYnd0Tt-sgFSfFFkM/s400/asun2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667988141790096562" /></a><br />We awoke the following morning having barely slept due to the noise of the traffic outside our hotel window. After some minutes of complaining to each other, we realized the noise of buses and trucks and cars had stopped completely. Peeking outside our window felt more like a dream than any possible reality - a river of bicycles silently glided past our hotel. What a relief it was to hear conversations and laughter instead of brakes and engines. It was Bicycle Sunday! better known as <a href="http://www.viarecreactiva.org/">Via Recreactiva</a>. On top of this, Guadalajara was also hosting the Pan Am Games. Everything was busy and everyone was at their friendliest. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPb1JePEBvCRjghO-ChHyoHo-lx4vIsfpfvll_MgrFImWXKKV4cEe42UziqftUtGjLKcry0W-pdtj2eZTNC8QUlum9tx6JWB1DK1TTzOLbR7P28YNWdkCiyHnjTYtZDzxiwIypyP251tk/s1600/asun4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPb1JePEBvCRjghO-ChHyoHo-lx4vIsfpfvll_MgrFImWXKKV4cEe42UziqftUtGjLKcry0W-pdtj2eZTNC8QUlum9tx6JWB1DK1TTzOLbR7P28YNWdkCiyHnjTYtZDzxiwIypyP251tk/s400/asun4.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668005214596678962" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1OsW4yocnHCSQN1GmAGfw9syQhiDnB2FDBMLYGeJtkuxXHtKKpiJPArzb94n1NRzsiMXh_TPCA6x5lI6xoVZKgLyI2JOQ-m1HW5JHiStkp0SukIroVzsdNtl0IBTiODVEGl4s4WZa2A/s1600/asun3.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit1OsW4yocnHCSQN1GmAGfw9syQhiDnB2FDBMLYGeJtkuxXHtKKpiJPArzb94n1NRzsiMXh_TPCA6x5lI6xoVZKgLyI2JOQ-m1HW5JHiStkp0SukIroVzsdNtl0IBTiODVEGl4s4WZa2A/s400/asun3.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667989408130702418" /></a><br />So many distactions and yet with all our unexpected extra free time we were devoted to finding the maps needed to trace out a new cycling route. Top of mind was a trip along the road from Durango to Mazatlan also known as the "Espinazo del Diablo" (Devil's Backbone). Our first stop was to the bicycle friendly <a href="http://www.gdlenbici.org/casa-ciclista">Casa Ciclista</a> who offers a free place to crash and wash up for folks travelling by bicycle as well as city bikes for rent through Guadalajara's public bike rental program called <a href="http://www.bktbicipublica.com/#">bicipublica</a>. Bernardo at Casa Ciclista pointed us in many directions for links that might help us gather more info. Best of all, he confirmed that our desired exit from the city was the lowest traffic of the two options we had for heading towards Zacatecas.<br /> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopPl7jqhjAvaJM8G0DkvM4PiREgMspCXXO14PrqeD9CT5FKZPprUn4nZjYXWjpHO5KLATH_onuOj9zWC9d2tyV8u6OqiIr6ujho3Dh97i2i5bBCdQuzPuGUrgIZWL5bO_z8XZNW7m8HQ/s1600/casaciclista.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiopPl7jqhjAvaJM8G0DkvM4PiREgMspCXXO14PrqeD9CT5FKZPprUn4nZjYXWjpHO5KLATH_onuOj9zWC9d2tyV8u6OqiIr6ujho3Dh97i2i5bBCdQuzPuGUrgIZWL5bO_z8XZNW7m8HQ/s400/casaciclista.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667994852349839794" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8BBv0KBmYdAe6v9TkUz8fjZ5y3ckVZ_nwIgBlytnBAIcJZz2XaaQ7cO2BcHCMzJO8emePGJ55p5qmYWXxX4Ah_Rv2MI8IceAywe-MQd5kE78tevgUeZ9ppjX7h0EpcyQheU6Mw5GTgQ/s1600/casaciclista2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8BBv0KBmYdAe6v9TkUz8fjZ5y3ckVZ_nwIgBlytnBAIcJZz2XaaQ7cO2BcHCMzJO8emePGJ55p5qmYWXxX4Ah_Rv2MI8IceAywe-MQd5kE78tevgUeZ9ppjX7h0EpcyQheU6Mw5GTgQ/s400/casaciclista2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667994850359778514" /></a><br />After gathering all the necessary maps, we decided to reward ourselves by attending our first ever Lucha Libre match - a definite must for pure gut busting Mexican entertainment.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidShqg0ql5bVxqoHA5i7DVbY6H6vM186XKoZ_hL1EiZlfqM738DNLKq0-SOIPgh2hHfhuQRol-vAfUXESZ9VIn5XvTiRjTvSkObw9pkmiQ4OOovt6AZJSgiEFuMiIcIm_vS1X3RkJUlHU/s1600/lucha2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidShqg0ql5bVxqoHA5i7DVbY6H6vM186XKoZ_hL1EiZlfqM738DNLKq0-SOIPgh2hHfhuQRol-vAfUXESZ9VIn5XvTiRjTvSkObw9pkmiQ4OOovt6AZJSgiEFuMiIcIm_vS1X3RkJUlHU/s400/lucha2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667999651113221042" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZFYct_vPwkLEmTUy3vDctnnpj6FDJr2jnhGObS0PVRYJGGqOW_0Rgt1lYXW6YmS8EQmJ6rk9uLOvnvSqJvrAq4VGo3cJmEKsAUb1IS6YRkI5_ft1L8GB5MXzN2eilitvI2L8obMZdLk/s1600/lucha.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZFYct_vPwkLEmTUy3vDctnnpj6FDJr2jnhGObS0PVRYJGGqOW_0Rgt1lYXW6YmS8EQmJ6rk9uLOvnvSqJvrAq4VGo3cJmEKsAUb1IS6YRkI5_ft1L8GB5MXzN2eilitvI2L8obMZdLk/s400/lucha.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5667999651663526818" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-74049012291965230862011-09-20T16:18:00.000-07:002011-10-01T09:10:23.001-07:00Guadalupe Saves<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmzypUUHxXD2SiM185Rh3uZcF9k2l86dtLiAShBJ5abRZKp_AZwZ9bNXBGjA_PtLC9hBAa14k3p5grkdandI8ody8FnfCt8sYq1L7ucNeka2L-xskzk4AfdavFc3Y7Iw_eu8EaOBryxY/s1600/Guad.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFmzypUUHxXD2SiM185Rh3uZcF9k2l86dtLiAShBJ5abRZKp_AZwZ9bNXBGjA_PtLC9hBAa14k3p5grkdandI8ody8FnfCt8sYq1L7ucNeka2L-xskzk4AfdavFc3Y7Iw_eu8EaOBryxY/s400/Guad.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5658282006063915170" /></a><br />It was the seventh time I had called this hotel over a series of days, and the unhelpful young voice was not telling me what I wanted to hear. "You have to speak to Jesus to make a reservation for those dates". Previously nobody had answered the phone, and now I had someone on the line who wasn't equipped to make any decisions. This is not so uncommon, but, with enough persistence I usually get what I want. I tried to get around the need for me to have to personally speak to Jesus, but this voice wouldn't budge. At least I had the name of the absentee decision maker. "Okay, so when is Jesus in?" "Friday" she said and she hung up. I wasn't hopeful.<br /><br />Four days later I made the indicated call to Jesus. This time a different reluctant voice told me that, "nobody knows where Jesus is as he has no fixed schedule". "Does he receive messages and call people back?" I suggested. "No" she scoffed and then agreed that I definitely needed to talk to Jesus to make a reservation. I was at an impasse. Exasperated, I sighed louder than I meant to and hesitated as I searched for the right words to move towards a solution, but my mind was blank. To get rid of me, she suggested that Sunday might be a good day to find Jesus.<br /><br />On Sunday, I picked up the phone prepared to talk to Jesus. This time a much more confident voice gave me the bad news of Jesus' absence. I told her my story and she remembered us and our crew of strange bikes and cyclists. She offered that if I were to call back the following day, she would be able to tell me if she could hold some rooms for us. A little hopeful, but also wary, I asked for the name of the person willing to take ownership of my developing problem. "I'm Guadalupe" she brightly answered. <br /><br />How many times a day do I see images of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico? She's on everything from towels to tattoos. She's in the market, on the bus, in the park, by the side of the road, on the wall outside the butcher shop. She's cut into tissue paper and strung decoratively about the streets. Heck, she's painted into hillsides. She's everywhere, and the next day, when she confirmed our room reservations, I was not surprised to be saved, not by Jesus, but by Guadalupe.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-52300749696628528792010-11-04T16:12:00.000-07:002010-11-04T22:00:40.987-07:00Day of the Dead<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gDZosCMtPzxpZEIXtB0L4PNJ42XA0F6yrIGsoYXFzdz5RwmaKtxGgJmxPDHwYkGu5xuncK9y0Vnox6-o-Fd7XuUd7UM8UFnDpPgLocChkuZsLAtwWnxbc3tE2WFmgTCheNKQyzDI9F0/s1600/IMG_7739.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5gDZosCMtPzxpZEIXtB0L4PNJ42XA0F6yrIGsoYXFzdz5RwmaKtxGgJmxPDHwYkGu5xuncK9y0Vnox6-o-Fd7XuUd7UM8UFnDpPgLocChkuZsLAtwWnxbc3tE2WFmgTCheNKQyzDI9F0/s400/IMG_7739.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535926014669175858" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIYbfHmDjNXKwcEa2q-Pyhy8nk9qpp0Jlt1yfvN5IjaybVgPopVVTFvbWtW5VOZp9QQ8VNm7c6acLIQ95spnIk38eYDmTrXBgMYVDW7B0v_HV_-mjgpxjj580WLjOICWk0bYpVagt8v4/s1600/IMG_4368.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIYbfHmDjNXKwcEa2q-Pyhy8nk9qpp0Jlt1yfvN5IjaybVgPopVVTFvbWtW5VOZp9QQ8VNm7c6acLIQ95spnIk38eYDmTrXBgMYVDW7B0v_HV_-mjgpxjj580WLjOICWk0bYpVagt8v4/s400/IMG_4368.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535907593934145442" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSz0kylIP8Wqk-enqdDGHuYE_nkVFVjsi7zegePkfkaXPCiQp8sEBFmpj6jY226T8HUisOGTUWEVwXw3N71tTM70rZgHPIw0TxuDjmaPveeLaQWL6pVcQsIsLvtbSzlfll2P-3jnV62lc/s1600/IMG_4353.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSz0kylIP8Wqk-enqdDGHuYE_nkVFVjsi7zegePkfkaXPCiQp8sEBFmpj6jY226T8HUisOGTUWEVwXw3N71tTM70rZgHPIw0TxuDjmaPveeLaQWL6pVcQsIsLvtbSzlfll2P-3jnV62lc/s400/IMG_4353.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535907612913810098" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLKcBPH2EKHH5lJIB2VRrX-zcGHgOSDWDJQnIQMiKrKoD_turIB6KcVmmN6z8vnkFCVxNYVQ3KdhmUqIdPoak_VZHSQAaKRx3KFbHOIrbcKz9rqvc4jWEAcJ1IPYralRgTtYFS-Xt8Eg/s1600/IMG_4301.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvLKcBPH2EKHH5lJIB2VRrX-zcGHgOSDWDJQnIQMiKrKoD_turIB6KcVmmN6z8vnkFCVxNYVQ3KdhmUqIdPoak_VZHSQAaKRx3KFbHOIrbcKz9rqvc4jWEAcJ1IPYralRgTtYFS-Xt8Eg/s400/IMG_4301.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535906089528057474" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVa0ncawUdTif-3lTLXiaThZIBTEC2JOQvfE6vVD8SfbUZIjsGSAP438wmoqGERjThOK6EXyeIMjs1onWUyeQaDLFrcR_Ct7f60ELLpKUzEpw2wurOKgjYts0if2ZLAPAscpZ9jBQCt3A/s1600/IMG_4362.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVa0ncawUdTif-3lTLXiaThZIBTEC2JOQvfE6vVD8SfbUZIjsGSAP438wmoqGERjThOK6EXyeIMjs1onWUyeQaDLFrcR_Ct7f60ELLpKUzEpw2wurOKgjYts0if2ZLAPAscpZ9jBQCt3A/s400/IMG_4362.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5535907606353840050" /></a><br />Leading up to the Day of the Dead sugar skulls and plastic wreaths abound in every town. Our little group of cyclists slowly plod their way up to the town of Angahuan, Michoacan at the edge of the lava flow of the volcano of Paricutin. Purepecha announcements echo across town like some kind of continuous chant, people scurry about town buying flowers and wreaths in preparation for the celebration of the Day of the Dead. The atmosphere in the cemetery is not somber. The whole community turns out to tidy the graves and make their offerings spending the evening and day with their dearly departed. Kids run and play. Prayers are made. Food is shared. Plates of tamales are extended to us. The feeling is overwhelmingly warm and welcoming.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-49543470237396908282010-07-27T09:22:00.000-07:002010-07-27T10:10:35.568-07:00Festive Oaxaca<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgto_ZJtJ9XxQ600hyDxxF28hO9RLb_ovY9h_D6qB8FIoIx0LRMGjbx4M3thjgf6gQANMivT8ZwtraLADDQ_MFwG6YWKuyvVzX12CBIGTZpSqXNZ8B-l_Pyj1iTyPypUazyG9tsfIynwGE/s1600/IMG_3531.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgto_ZJtJ9XxQ600hyDxxF28hO9RLb_ovY9h_D6qB8FIoIx0LRMGjbx4M3thjgf6gQANMivT8ZwtraLADDQ_MFwG6YWKuyvVzX12CBIGTZpSqXNZ8B-l_Pyj1iTyPypUazyG9tsfIynwGE/s400/IMG_3531.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498628457514028562" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5qAGGBKFDUljP130oPYI_nMq5B-JBl5pg-0tDr5hSCqCOYo4UfjBt0ktKVdeAvumrnIABMAEu-GbFpyWn775ZJg2J8ZZPK5PZQ1Mzs7xgBZL9PuOuYe-bli1KP2LXfrpcvPppyWypeY/s1600/ladies.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr5qAGGBKFDUljP130oPYI_nMq5B-JBl5pg-0tDr5hSCqCOYo4UfjBt0ktKVdeAvumrnIABMAEu-GbFpyWn775ZJg2J8ZZPK5PZQ1Mzs7xgBZL9PuOuYe-bli1KP2LXfrpcvPppyWypeY/s400/ladies.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498624085590496866" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRc4VVEwe_uFa8kArWLjchD9QdkyhArR7Q3rDpUXUKKV5ATjew3Bo64yM4LpbpOn29dWQp1E2wl_Kr5t4rQuGguqVspAhdirJG80UOt1dsaxVeWq4HKrV-Mbh_gJ-DR2KeRN2Ybag4gyk/s1600/canasta2.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRc4VVEwe_uFa8kArWLjchD9QdkyhArR7Q3rDpUXUKKV5ATjew3Bo64yM4LpbpOn29dWQp1E2wl_Kr5t4rQuGguqVspAhdirJG80UOt1dsaxVeWq4HKrV-Mbh_gJ-DR2KeRN2Ybag4gyk/s400/canasta2.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498626293080534082" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBcayqMbSakkCi_DSniqjVFKiWSj5Rcu0sVUj8y2NWq9oWxTjf4Jx6P9QkHARx-P_IkF1BV9cia01-Z8pNxE3GBJNHR2UiC3iI21wNS7Zo-Jdq1l0jK0mrdc01yl9mvIhgppSoYwhT7Y/s1600/lady3.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdBcayqMbSakkCi_DSniqjVFKiWSj5Rcu0sVUj8y2NWq9oWxTjf4Jx6P9QkHARx-P_IkF1BV9cia01-Z8pNxE3GBJNHR2UiC3iI21wNS7Zo-Jdq1l0jK0mrdc01yl9mvIhgppSoYwhT7Y/s400/lady3.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498627182703011314" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOr4BXnm6ENLAgtwav-7lHb8XiEXB5930tgDFANFnbjqzqpuBcwyJjxvwa-1MRTPk-SiZD4uKTbpAs61WUyvDUiSANZtGi7PxlxULDbaqApe_45dcZi87WQAmtpls04Nvmig7N0iCglu0/s1600/boda.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOr4BXnm6ENLAgtwav-7lHb8XiEXB5930tgDFANFnbjqzqpuBcwyJjxvwa-1MRTPk-SiZD4uKTbpAs61WUyvDUiSANZtGi7PxlxULDbaqApe_45dcZi87WQAmtpls04Nvmig7N0iCglu0/s400/boda.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5498622492957408626" /></a><br />It has been silent here a long while, but being in Oaxaca through Guelaguetza it is hard to keep quiet - especially through all the fireworks and festivities. Wandering amidst the carnival of colour and the hopeful energy that flows at events like this, it is difficult to understand the hesitation anyone might feel about coming here. As in life, if you keep your eyes and your heart open, Mexico is as beautiful as you allow her to be.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-3198507065583453302010-01-22T12:36:00.000-08:002010-01-22T12:36:00.117-08:00Mexican Doughboy?<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMteheJUyP1mtCrmSVeSlixC0dvjuY9JnyIGArWGTq_UzXLw32MQhdXd7ThNWBif4zeUv604XH0U9w2PvcMJSKkcKKTcA3XR-tboOr4S6kfAwnbhO0gaa_qdS3Bvt4Lcg3To140OyIw4/s1600-h/bread.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMteheJUyP1mtCrmSVeSlixC0dvjuY9JnyIGArWGTq_UzXLw32MQhdXd7ThNWBif4zeUv604XH0U9w2PvcMJSKkcKKTcA3XR-tboOr4S6kfAwnbhO0gaa_qdS3Bvt4Lcg3To140OyIw4/s400/bread.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427904128583164642" /></a><br />Mexican bakeries abound even in the smallest of towns. Most evenings the aroma of baked goods wafts out into the streets tempting passersby to load up on what are mainly sweet breads. I have learned over the years that, for Mexican bread to be at all enjoyable, it really must be eaten the day it is purchased. In my opinion, breads here look and smell a lot more exciting than they taste. They certainly do come up with a good variety of shapes for their breads, but I have yet to discover a huge variance between their flavour and texture. Perhaps with time, I'll be better at discerning their subtleties. For now, I'll keep following those aromas and will never resist a roll that comes out of a wood burning oven - especially one that is lovingly created by a happy fat baker.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-64257629814135964612010-01-21T07:47:00.000-08:002010-01-21T07:47:00.161-08:00Isla Soyaltepec<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXE6lJVuxZaOQN5hLEhDIqzxf0X-mvPrB5sSA5RTXTCdIAwQS3pC-JI-MKgtNi4rCAD2feaUiMSYKpGaX-oLLnZVhAsMC8njMcyA-VuImqIRDXmam-ihXk_3dQqJJKh4zhTsoaCLzkq0/s1600-h/IMG_9670.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDXE6lJVuxZaOQN5hLEhDIqzxf0X-mvPrB5sSA5RTXTCdIAwQS3pC-JI-MKgtNi4rCAD2feaUiMSYKpGaX-oLLnZVhAsMC8njMcyA-VuImqIRDXmam-ihXk_3dQqJJKh4zhTsoaCLzkq0/s400/IMG_9670.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427860818951239458" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpDmBDiWtAi1Fbhhigka0Axh0GUjVIf4p7W74kBo2IPHN2yqNoAk7AMa3dd0xp6bZegurhxz5b9lmPGmWPHaQDUchXIVDJUFeT-GlxC1bOCDD99_pxnz2taP-8_8QSJ41Bqg5VGQB0FA0/s1600-h/IMG_9634.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpDmBDiWtAi1Fbhhigka0Axh0GUjVIf4p7W74kBo2IPHN2yqNoAk7AMa3dd0xp6bZegurhxz5b9lmPGmWPHaQDUchXIVDJUFeT-GlxC1bOCDD99_pxnz2taP-8_8QSJ41Bqg5VGQB0FA0/s400/IMG_9634.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427864683106066930" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj725OX4y_T-gxy_VjieOSGvk1rUnHpldmmPli69cbUbxqS0awMgN-LxBhks6jS-bIRf95FN4elmaftYKIAw7cbsZryE4IKjQ2sOJbO3UAYe06ZYEQzs90pv9VqSjTR7smeatA9wEJmlNE/s1600-h/IMG_9612.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj725OX4y_T-gxy_VjieOSGvk1rUnHpldmmPli69cbUbxqS0awMgN-LxBhks6jS-bIRf95FN4elmaftYKIAw7cbsZryE4IKjQ2sOJbO3UAYe06ZYEQzs90pv9VqSjTR7smeatA9wEJmlNE/s400/IMG_9612.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427864687674558818" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlly7dik2yiIFitoFilbU10pY4rZvEDZacy4wyQBP2OmqeoijIPE9ocxRG1_W4Vo396i21RcKQW5QJfjOgZ-phe6WadyzXzBv-WJIkHqeFXf9N6t1j7f6vwVm3KVT2gMrziy0Bes0NPaQ/s1600-h/IMG_9610.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlly7dik2yiIFitoFilbU10pY4rZvEDZacy4wyQBP2OmqeoijIPE9ocxRG1_W4Vo396i21RcKQW5QJfjOgZ-phe6WadyzXzBv-WJIkHqeFXf9N6t1j7f6vwVm3KVT2gMrziy0Bes0NPaQ/s400/IMG_9610.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427864692578923234" /></a><br />What would life be like in a world without cars? A half hour boat trip through islands that are little more than tree tops takes you to the Island of Soyaltepec always remote, but now exceedingly remote since the flooding of the Temascal Reservoir. One benefit of the dam is that all 500 of Soyaltepec's residents have electricity, but the roads are grass or mud and stone and donkeys traffic all consumibles from the turkey studded wharf to the town at the top of the half hour climb. After days of rain the locals are pleased to see strangers picking their way along the muddy tracks towards the summit of their island. Local women proudly promote their embroidery, a local drunk keeps a good tune on an avocado leaf, livestock roams free and the 18th century church has the best view on the island. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggdwGTK_r1reNa_Da9aKPe28P083wGL4r1LoLC6Cpcb3f8M7pfXtzvqn3mFTXUTaV_c55uH8P5v4lYlRXP5FiOqriAnQ-jZPB52a4kkQik3-b91jLM5kjT_oX29Rfw9-0CVty3Tv0Z-v4/s1600-h/IMG_9642.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggdwGTK_r1reNa_Da9aKPe28P083wGL4r1LoLC6Cpcb3f8M7pfXtzvqn3mFTXUTaV_c55uH8P5v4lYlRXP5FiOqriAnQ-jZPB52a4kkQik3-b91jLM5kjT_oX29Rfw9-0CVty3Tv0Z-v4/s400/IMG_9642.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427864672684358642" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHSLx28jFnRO9Cyc_s2rXhCJniMVOv6z-DhUJilZ0iLHe9ufjSZLLVuWlJGz0XS1XX53oTjuEC13JAtELBWkvzrxgp1tOXdu4TQKKJsqsVifrylkcG8QSDOrcMbDaucx1pQRP8d-6dPg/s1600-h/IMG_9649.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWHSLx28jFnRO9Cyc_s2rXhCJniMVOv6z-DhUJilZ0iLHe9ufjSZLLVuWlJGz0XS1XX53oTjuEC13JAtELBWkvzrxgp1tOXdu4TQKKJsqsVifrylkcG8QSDOrcMbDaucx1pQRP8d-6dPg/s400/IMG_9649.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427860830194401874" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_16vCtD1gsunoKambe4Q9qSTWROQ9hRiATqc7KaOA83Cho9l72C5eesO17ARD7RSPtmJHQ3-C5qhoZYBA3WbBPdJJg4FeuXmvc7uGh5-9n0hBPxMYAeGiT0DIp4qH_YpXLOOtCIU16LM/s1600-h/IMG_9679.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_16vCtD1gsunoKambe4Q9qSTWROQ9hRiATqc7KaOA83Cho9l72C5eesO17ARD7RSPtmJHQ3-C5qhoZYBA3WbBPdJJg4FeuXmvc7uGh5-9n0hBPxMYAeGiT0DIp4qH_YpXLOOtCIU16LM/s400/IMG_9679.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427860809524116962" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-30498813219230567652010-01-20T13:37:00.000-08:002010-01-20T17:54:15.943-08:00San Pedro Ixcatlan<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghziTyM5ZuQgAbqQV9ixto96y7UYJe4LDfhkBLxWT1L0gJqpsDPKHpa_jgxafeSI1FYFYUm1Lp3e0lUKLysviuhYLuc-7GQUtm7mwDxCo2qjKsJydR7O5E_e6dW5yqknu6_ZLKJEDU1k8/s1600-h/IMG_7256.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghziTyM5ZuQgAbqQV9ixto96y7UYJe4LDfhkBLxWT1L0gJqpsDPKHpa_jgxafeSI1FYFYUm1Lp3e0lUKLysviuhYLuc-7GQUtm7mwDxCo2qjKsJydR7O5E_e6dW5yqknu6_ZLKJEDU1k8/s400/IMG_7256.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427839109494224546" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNfRDiGCP6H2ieTyqe9qeA3WnCnK9zhzN38xhRbeQu2Z-Pl8OiSXBYHmOltUdo3dkipNPgHcQUrbYC7advjQm8HijdGv9Mr_ND68iaLnQnvteHaPlA1kOZ-lnv90si0yMgfNP_wkae5N0/s1600-h/IMG_7250.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNfRDiGCP6H2ieTyqe9qeA3WnCnK9zhzN38xhRbeQu2Z-Pl8OiSXBYHmOltUdo3dkipNPgHcQUrbYC7advjQm8HijdGv9Mr_ND68iaLnQnvteHaPlA1kOZ-lnv90si0yMgfNP_wkae5N0/s400/IMG_7250.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427839100495630642" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37gK-zQx5cDMSaXQ0CoalJnrQk-mLX75YIkaPDRj8AWt9CndByecUepUTfc2YxfW4Den3DhHwdeyZXxj2Q93yE1Zz5XOERrmZBth3tUeGl_e0HMJGCh9mLxU5d1cyrHoneWEsUuM2lIQ/s1600-h/IMG_7266.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj37gK-zQx5cDMSaXQ0CoalJnrQk-mLX75YIkaPDRj8AWt9CndByecUepUTfc2YxfW4Den3DhHwdeyZXxj2Q93yE1Zz5XOERrmZBth3tUeGl_e0HMJGCh9mLxU5d1cyrHoneWEsUuM2lIQ/s400/IMG_7266.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427839087068343490" /></a><br /><br />To the right off Highway 182 just past the village of Surprise and some 7 kilometres down a cement road surrounded by blue waters and idyllic pastureland is a tiny slice of Oaxacan paradise. The pace is slow, everyone acknowledges you as you walk by, and you hear Mazatec more than Spanish in the streets of San Pedro Ixcatlan. Some thoughtful soul decided to share this dreamlike village with the outside world by building a hotel at the top of town's most distant hillock. Spend a few days nourishing yourself on seafood and basking in the simple beauty of the surrounding islands.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-66165273534587174402010-01-19T09:49:00.000-08:002010-01-19T14:39:30.317-08:00Mazatec country<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTeNqde4eS0j9EUD38O3vQJTRP2zJSoghnNTEivNnh5VcDPDeKNlVM4UHfKmboSapb-1eOkIOrNzUrNq5hRJEn9yvYwslUUIgOBe-X1S7r5OTjzYuhn3Wi-1xh9g2ixSclc69Njr2_bc/s1600-h/IMG_9497.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTeNqde4eS0j9EUD38O3vQJTRP2zJSoghnNTEivNnh5VcDPDeKNlVM4UHfKmboSapb-1eOkIOrNzUrNq5hRJEn9yvYwslUUIgOBe-X1S7r5OTjzYuhn3Wi-1xh9g2ixSclc69Njr2_bc/s400/IMG_9497.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427816010092372258" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG2v99MfHBlqvHJ_T6BHmgNHp6K9fQw2Yo0XhHBF7Tm0JYVIVg-LrgZQ-CJHLTlCakdXGDUPXTMM0lu9gPTy_wvNoUzXoAc_UOBcr5ssVMhc162mayy7ZglpuUvNbkmnm06dxUJkq0W4/s1600-h/IMG_7182.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpG2v99MfHBlqvHJ_T6BHmgNHp6K9fQw2Yo0XhHBF7Tm0JYVIVg-LrgZQ-CJHLTlCakdXGDUPXTMM0lu9gPTy_wvNoUzXoAc_UOBcr5ssVMhc162mayy7ZglpuUvNbkmnm06dxUJkq0W4/s400/IMG_7182.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427813939924864098" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk7dchvJjwQMSTbtcot-AwkH-svY9Dyms43S1FK2i-tkA7ia4J-bmChGbE3MrqGryyymIvkBDSSF7PHcJyfTPDM4RHVN_IEIREJMRLgbHXAaDEzr-eGxEKdkGEHtY-RRNIsAMupKz81o/s1600-h/mojarra.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 302px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbk7dchvJjwQMSTbtcot-AwkH-svY9Dyms43S1FK2i-tkA7ia4J-bmChGbE3MrqGryyymIvkBDSSF7PHcJyfTPDM4RHVN_IEIREJMRLgbHXAaDEzr-eGxEKdkGEHtY-RRNIsAMupKz81o/s400/mojarra.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427809687294814770" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrq87lneSyEgNKoorETTmpXZm0bPmSQjMMyaWspI1r7DYXkEfe-_6Z8UIibV5zZP8KSDt_SBCTiagobb3I-oFm6QsXkW-l5jpO6O8eKgbDGWm5DKPTD7mw7cwJD-n7BUEbJuZjzy4QQA/s1600-h/IMG_9525.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrq87lneSyEgNKoorETTmpXZm0bPmSQjMMyaWspI1r7DYXkEfe-_6Z8UIibV5zZP8KSDt_SBCTiagobb3I-oFm6QsXkW-l5jpO6O8eKgbDGWm5DKPTD7mw7cwJD-n7BUEbJuZjzy4QQA/s400/IMG_9525.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427806257430862338" /></a><br />The gentle road that winds it's way along the banks of the Papaloapan river through groves of rubber trees and sugar cane is a welcome reprieve as we enter the wide open and warm country of the Mazatec people. Embroidery abounds, fields are fertile, and the weather holds out allowing some of our clothing to almost dry. <br /><br />Leaving behind the Tuxtepec's paper mills and the largest brewery in Mexico, we turn west and make our way to a little visited gem in a forgotten corner of Oaxaca state: the 1000 islands. Fish, fish, and fish abound and are the main way of life for these people who just 55 years ago grew mainly cotton, coffee, and rice. Sleepy San Pedro Ixcatlan pokes out into the flood waters of the Miguel Aleman dam or Temascal reservoir and nestles itself nicely alongside the imposing presence of the Mazatec holy mountain Cerro Rabon.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-56605999732858511032010-01-18T07:14:00.000-08:002010-01-19T11:09:01.499-08:00Sierra Juarez<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv10eVMtxZsM7v0QabIO1TByyBVk_VCFaxlQFBRh7EnBKhtgV00NGF-8bYvRtnSMN8A88l-gFFnP3qENcNxVgOM3INKx5rTDCnTVAoKBqiWwJSya1MTYRmGlsNaG5lJ_gOB4xUM08T7oM/s1600-h/IMG_9349.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv10eVMtxZsM7v0QabIO1TByyBVk_VCFaxlQFBRh7EnBKhtgV00NGF-8bYvRtnSMN8A88l-gFFnP3qENcNxVgOM3INKx5rTDCnTVAoKBqiWwJSya1MTYRmGlsNaG5lJ_gOB4xUM08T7oM/s400/IMG_9349.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427737584392453890" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWc016f2lwled2hlRWq-vnGu7jrjvuhSX7Q_e3ELkjc568ZTW9E6NmLIHltB4DzNWZrLoqS8oY0rbC62QCWDLBb_RdNtogAwkEwjv-0xcIDsTy_uGfUfnKBNYZ7_CtD21HpbfbeiPm4o/s1600-h/IMG_9367.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWc016f2lwled2hlRWq-vnGu7jrjvuhSX7Q_e3ELkjc568ZTW9E6NmLIHltB4DzNWZrLoqS8oY0rbC62QCWDLBb_RdNtogAwkEwjv-0xcIDsTy_uGfUfnKBNYZ7_CtD21HpbfbeiPm4o/s400/IMG_9367.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427737580974227186" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT5ocXR6StDYsvaFOkQEyLWpledWD3E0V_IWkSva1xDKN07CTVbv5Pye9N76ebUVmPllJTdkLNhVLhl5fk1W4COOjv61AfuWwMgXJhyphenhyphenSNUT3Scfj3inUasEgdJXWldWQCsFUZndGWs8Q/s1600-h/IMG_9397.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifT5ocXR6StDYsvaFOkQEyLWpledWD3E0V_IWkSva1xDKN07CTVbv5Pye9N76ebUVmPllJTdkLNhVLhl5fk1W4COOjv61AfuWwMgXJhyphenhyphenSNUT3Scfj3inUasEgdJXWldWQCsFUZndGWs8Q/s400/IMG_9397.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427737574760766962" /></a><br />It's not that there has been no sun on our little turn through the north of Oaxaca. We left the valley with the sun on our backs, but when the clouds roll in and you're at altitude the only way to escape the cold is with a hot beverage, a heavy blanket, and/or a fireplace. Homes are not heated in Mexico the way they are north of the border. When it is cold, it's cold. We still managed to pull ourselves out from under our blankets on our rest day to head out by mototaxi for a small sampling of the biodiversity of the forests of Sierra Juarez.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-15718930677496484612010-01-17T06:09:00.000-08:002010-01-17T07:14:04.218-08:00Return to the Sierra<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2CKwuI1h1mtVpCk_gK8WtFiePNZYThm5ctCRhk_QA8IQPEMIM8wI4Cz6iVWWzR7D2GxN3-haO-Ci3mVCuaWU8sx4F5FR9xI0oA3l_CPe-VkgUL8tXhDebgo1W5owKyn7rLgM59TSp_UU/s1600-h/Al.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2CKwuI1h1mtVpCk_gK8WtFiePNZYThm5ctCRhk_QA8IQPEMIM8wI4Cz6iVWWzR7D2GxN3-haO-Ci3mVCuaWU8sx4F5FR9xI0oA3l_CPe-VkgUL8tXhDebgo1W5owKyn7rLgM59TSp_UU/s400/Al.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427723346682892386" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaftFW2vETD1B0iLnIraYo_XimbGM1q3O8N49lEkHeyEdwW1zetejX_PNB-cySbBwsFzlOH4mxbzKHXnjszI-CuPj-WK_7xtZgboRByvAiM9dotpPbTUOj6Ar78MrcK1r2klOsWFP3-YE/s1600-h/bee.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaftFW2vETD1B0iLnIraYo_XimbGM1q3O8N49lEkHeyEdwW1zetejX_PNB-cySbBwsFzlOH4mxbzKHXnjszI-CuPj-WK_7xtZgboRByvAiM9dotpPbTUOj6Ar78MrcK1r2klOsWFP3-YE/s400/bee.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427715882553402578" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVEmTOrBRaqH5qQGyDrt7v1iYhetgDSxVjWqkPZyYe5640Hiyftqz1IObXKHUQtzGnbThX3GAR7cVSDuk7LeFN6kGNh9d1Lx4qB-5EQ59wI8uEZogVOIj7VirzAxyuyRoT4EEknndvEs/s1600-h/tree.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbVEmTOrBRaqH5qQGyDrt7v1iYhetgDSxVjWqkPZyYe5640Hiyftqz1IObXKHUQtzGnbThX3GAR7cVSDuk7LeFN6kGNh9d1Lx4qB-5EQ59wI8uEZogVOIj7VirzAxyuyRoT4EEknndvEs/s400/tree.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427715083091732226" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6fk1xkb2FSiz3W2_hljCsNJyMYwRavpEizWSA62Mn9vGEv7BaUEHqJWRGrYxCmD8Ub_9prXti5vuj6VFBymhJOSpV0vb1vW3Qux4WVckGRRqhllk0CCVmA7c7TSdBHa_HX_S518vWi0/s1600-h/clouds.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK6fk1xkb2FSiz3W2_hljCsNJyMYwRavpEizWSA62Mn9vGEv7BaUEHqJWRGrYxCmD8Ub_9prXti5vuj6VFBymhJOSpV0vb1vW3Qux4WVckGRRqhllk0CCVmA7c7TSdBHa_HX_S518vWi0/s400/clouds.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5427723349367381474" /></a><br />I stalled out. For some reason I got stuck and could blog no more. Not even cycling in the highlands of Michoacan or along the Pacific coast could pull me out of my slump. I was unwell while exploring our new Oaxaca route a few months ago and between guiding tours and moving in to our new place I have had little energy to spare since, but I'm back and reinspired by having nearly completed this new Oaxaca route with our first group of riders. <br /><br />Here I return us to that climb from Oaxaca to Ixtlan de Juarez and on to Cerro Machin and Pelon and then that tremendous 3000m drop down into the spongy lush Papaloapan basin. We thought it was epic having done it in the rain and fog and then the dark, but this time we got to add the presence of ice and snow into the mix. Perhaps it is just a really mean mountain that doesn't really like to give up cyclists to the other side? All I know is: blankets can be hard to come by when it is cold and rainy in a place that is always hot, and clothing that varies from wet to damp isn't much fun at all.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-57480751102431600752009-11-09T10:34:00.000-08:002010-01-03T21:05:25.561-08:00Curious Goose<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/xEPKTqH1L14&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/xEPKTqH1L14&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />Stopping for a quiet lunch outside of Tuxtepec we take notice of a curious goose keen on clean bicycles. His bike worship went on for many, many minutes until I shooed him away once he started to reef of the cables of the bike. He didn't move far though he simply waddled over to the next bike to cuddle up and gaze longingly.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-29750645085449303302009-11-07T06:28:00.000-08:002009-11-09T13:29:52.702-08:00Plunging into the Papaloapan<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVG_6nWlImOLXAJ-EVq3DHgU7pC757bXaeuVgmoSCfj3JuSwzf5r3t3QWwhivc_Cdrum0Ua8evNpNLl7-SjyT2w7ed7rObAJ2rYykXQkzt9F3rD38jWcISenRm7CR7pIYJwS189b67Xpk/s1600-h/IMG_7128.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVG_6nWlImOLXAJ-EVq3DHgU7pC757bXaeuVgmoSCfj3JuSwzf5r3t3QWwhivc_Cdrum0Ua8evNpNLl7-SjyT2w7ed7rObAJ2rYykXQkzt9F3rD38jWcISenRm7CR7pIYJwS189b67Xpk/s400/IMG_7128.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400821325374010722" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc3i7dsJq73G0kG1kQw2odueFaBfEOEEEGumItbqBdjrjVj04mGppobBkpmZLNYA3Xq_Y2azQWzHexPoOoCteFQyo0w2R7931kaQQWo8pZbyWKvvoMoMDEhbczdTbM5a8vPP85PvAxQaE/s1600-h/whee.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc3i7dsJq73G0kG1kQw2odueFaBfEOEEEGumItbqBdjrjVj04mGppobBkpmZLNYA3Xq_Y2azQWzHexPoOoCteFQyo0w2R7931kaQQWo8pZbyWKvvoMoMDEhbczdTbM5a8vPP85PvAxQaE/s400/whee.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400821310187417522" /></a><br />Okay, so....I lied. <br /><br />Earlier I said we were going to cycle this route the opposite way when we offered it as a tour. <br /><br />You see, Basil cycled this road a decade or so ago and his memory was almost as foggy as the middle part of this day's ride. Leaving Ixtlan we believed we had 17km of uphill to be followed by a beautiful long downhill to almost sea-level, but much to our surprise 17km became 40km, and as a result, the ride became not so easy. It didn't help that our very late departure put us at only half way down the mountain by nightfall. Our only blessing was that the rain and the fog gave way leaving us a beautiful, dry, newly paved road that delivered us safely into Valle Nacional.<br /><br />In the end, the amount of work that went into this day's longer than expected climb and our rolling (not always downhill) 3000m drop made us realize what a death march this ride would be for most fully-loaded bike tourists if cycled the opposite direction. For most such a ride would be simply impossible. Therefore we will indeed drop 3000m instead of climbing them. That drop will take us through pine-oak forests and into stunningly lush tropical hardwood jungle that is fed by water that trickles slowly and then cascades down the walls of the surrounding mountains eventually turning into tremendous rivers that gush out into the Papaloapan Plain. Corn, tobacco, coffee, rubber, sugarcane, and pineapple fill the valley and spill out towards the state of Varacruz. In Valle Nacional, surrounded by descendants of the Chinantec people, we eat empanadas and relax.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-14680565227009215272009-11-06T05:47:00.000-08:002009-11-06T05:47:00.614-08:00The Perfect Egg<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREkXKqgt73Z-BOdEUyAxwSFbBeOI7khtNfTYsKdV9CnEZ8p6BhiLeu7PIwTu9RfEtowBq3NJPvde8-Uz8cFsQYlV2K4xWtKV8ADxzlc9h-uCf6UR17GuHuTcwAMCXmyW9PkuQUxl6Epo/s1600-h/perfectegg.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREkXKqgt73Z-BOdEUyAxwSFbBeOI7khtNfTYsKdV9CnEZ8p6BhiLeu7PIwTu9RfEtowBq3NJPvde8-Uz8cFsQYlV2K4xWtKV8ADxzlc9h-uCf6UR17GuHuTcwAMCXmyW9PkuQUxl6Epo/s400/perfectegg.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400806796528389858" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41bACzRGsFmhUCrnr-l3tOSwMUMbSqRzutdXKpMFJzF38YW4TNdI0TY5knTG0rXhGVuSIgFbXkBiv9kNSZVk-kBg_96Hg1xxDTo_Xek74F7LjWn2VT_6GDaRqn4e4ssP6Lrdziynjc_M/s1600-h/IMG_7112.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi41bACzRGsFmhUCrnr-l3tOSwMUMbSqRzutdXKpMFJzF38YW4TNdI0TY5knTG0rXhGVuSIgFbXkBiv9kNSZVk-kBg_96Hg1xxDTo_Xek74F7LjWn2VT_6GDaRqn4e4ssP6Lrdziynjc_M/s400/IMG_7112.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400806782541585218" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8sTCjuHKhnPWXNQq4hishSfh5eRkGB1R3OlsmMPyl7QiB47tdqI9smGX5wCmJBlT7g2gIg_AU4JFrUJCGbPgDUDhx-7jJllk_7kUdAspXAZFlewAHkh8oni7Cv0xPlvccVdt6u3MOcvw/s1600-h/IMG_7097.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8sTCjuHKhnPWXNQq4hishSfh5eRkGB1R3OlsmMPyl7QiB47tdqI9smGX5wCmJBlT7g2gIg_AU4JFrUJCGbPgDUDhx-7jJllk_7kUdAspXAZFlewAHkh8oni7Cv0xPlvccVdt6u3MOcvw/s400/IMG_7097.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400806778834652658" /></a><br />A day was taken to explore the communities and trails around Ixtlan de Juarez where everyone and their dog's fleas are named Juarez. In this exploration Basil and Alejandro came upon what might be the most perfect egg. Fried on a flat clay grill (comal) rubbed with salt this egg never met a drop of oil but it was coupled (quite beautifully I might add) with a fresh piece of the peppery anise flavoured leaf known as hoja santa. Bring it together with handmade tortillas and and this humble breakfast gets my label as the perfect egg. <br /><br />Oh, and there are some pretty sweet forest trails out here as well, but those eggs!Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-72879400112077914272009-11-05T13:24:00.000-08:002009-11-05T15:56:15.129-08:00Arriving Ixtlan<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TrdU5LPth2Uak58Yd8i6FHP6dJD2cyBIadU92mSYvYSgl8OWRIIZkzCfctnfNygxyJFjp6Zr7JoL_a-j-UkG1Iy-8x5P16YXJA5aigncusIBU7POOASz1BD7B5_-sH-ESg2jPA3D21U/s1600-h/home.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7TrdU5LPth2Uak58Yd8i6FHP6dJD2cyBIadU92mSYvYSgl8OWRIIZkzCfctnfNygxyJFjp6Zr7JoL_a-j-UkG1Iy-8x5P16YXJA5aigncusIBU7POOASz1BD7B5_-sH-ESg2jPA3D21U/s400/home.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400760281243620482" /></a><br />We awake in a tidy, but roughly hewn wooden cabin in the village of El Punto almost 1000m above the Valley of Oaxaca. Outside the sun blazes down the lush hillside that leads to our cabin evaporating the thick layer of dew that has fallen overnight. We layer up in preparation for the remainder of our downhill before climbing back up to Guelatao the humble birthplace of Mexico's most beloved President, Benito Juarez.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUMox23dP3EZIwruOmQmTjh19kG9mE_Glx5FLQqrOOb5O9E60CyN-X75FS-2jb1u_dPXyXYk2Aomd4rjJIUxI9b02sWsfEZ-4sUykAhPd7kKNcjxnvlYjCHdeaZmI8NKlU5rFPqvh_C4/s1600-h/IMG_7068.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUMox23dP3EZIwruOmQmTjh19kG9mE_Glx5FLQqrOOb5O9E60CyN-X75FS-2jb1u_dPXyXYk2Aomd4rjJIUxI9b02sWsfEZ-4sUykAhPd7kKNcjxnvlYjCHdeaZmI8NKlU5rFPqvh_C4/s400/IMG_7068.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400760278429351490" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivwNzl-Ok4npy1XPBEIoDQ9E5YYjKnntb9LIVMjYzfoCyudlwS5BiTYTxmEw-O7I6f_XgBVGqXUtMunLfEMG5KY-1ymfSUfavJMZKdjrf4x9RSpJCkDxrc3CYGzemgmCyxG0rNIset0kY/s1600-h/IMG_7078.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivwNzl-Ok4npy1XPBEIoDQ9E5YYjKnntb9LIVMjYzfoCyudlwS5BiTYTxmEw-O7I6f_XgBVGqXUtMunLfEMG5KY-1ymfSUfavJMZKdjrf4x9RSpJCkDxrc3CYGzemgmCyxG0rNIset0kY/s400/IMG_7078.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400760261982746818" /></a><br />From Guelatao it is a steep ascent to sleepy Ixtlan de Juarez once famous for it's cochineal industry. The Churrigueresque churches are the only testimony to the wealth that the highly sought after vibrant red dye of this insect brought to the area. Like Baroque on steroids the interiors of these churches drip with colonial excess. After silver, cochineal was once the second export of Mexico. It is difficult to imagine this simple town created so many millionaires. <br /><br />Today it's wealth lay in the biodiversity of its surrounding forests. The WWF rates it amongst the 17 most biodiverse ecosystems in the world. All of Mexico's big cat species can be found here. Thankfully the Mexican government has invested a great deal in the development of ecotourism in this region and the surrounding communities take their role in this development very seriously.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtsAMjLJdfz_cIOoxDyJ7uRvbxtSYlu6O16dZVhgqf1zlfynoIQnc42J1CHGlbb6IUaL6noVqu-ogljVKH3sZv5cq-TjgEUSmipPQEKMVSpsCd1ic-cCVDsoiK0oUVLcyN4wJn2o-Q7Q/s1600-h/IMG_7092.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCtsAMjLJdfz_cIOoxDyJ7uRvbxtSYlu6O16dZVhgqf1zlfynoIQnc42J1CHGlbb6IUaL6noVqu-ogljVKH3sZv5cq-TjgEUSmipPQEKMVSpsCd1ic-cCVDsoiK0oUVLcyN4wJn2o-Q7Q/s400/IMG_7092.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400756186667331138" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XW8WfW3boYtqgMohhlcOrvwr453PJjHfltpY5YMRgEWyrtvmBgVg2TnAAKz08xS41XihmbzMjnLDSasovAqyFd7_nk1CO3XwLrV4dPDud03nfQMdoX_bfyB5MC58nBDmR1hgLEZwyFQ/s1600-h/bikeixtlan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XW8WfW3boYtqgMohhlcOrvwr453PJjHfltpY5YMRgEWyrtvmBgVg2TnAAKz08xS41XihmbzMjnLDSasovAqyFd7_nk1CO3XwLrV4dPDud03nfQMdoX_bfyB5MC58nBDmR1hgLEZwyFQ/s400/bikeixtlan.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400752847492221410" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-49850283287496750512009-10-10T17:34:00.000-07:002009-10-11T07:15:53.976-07:00Speedy Exploration<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhph9lQzgl_GlfLe9PEbR9_uaHXFdt4pVtzDks6Z_5exTSTNBK6EBc0sAOqfT5XNqgs59lY7jgw4IXMO_y77y0IMKiXyFwqLln2jEZ2q3cqdmz-n5fbEqLH7B1qXffsQmTDB9p4_8LJmkE/s1600-h/Ixtlan.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhph9lQzgl_GlfLe9PEbR9_uaHXFdt4pVtzDks6Z_5exTSTNBK6EBc0sAOqfT5XNqgs59lY7jgw4IXMO_y77y0IMKiXyFwqLln2jEZ2q3cqdmz-n5fbEqLH7B1qXffsQmTDB9p4_8LJmkE/s400/Ixtlan.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391150633093141058" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpsOfVNm_lCNhpJordh1eG1-gkdHMjo7D3_k1SjvWcgjCVA5c4oOCbrS5YMHcFCNz6lSljYBEwbFIBSakR_ofpt-qAtI-t9_a97sPP5JUvCn4Y_nqaYjEsZa8P0HFeblzZHSssSNd1_n8/s1600-h/Ixtlan2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpsOfVNm_lCNhpJordh1eG1-gkdHMjo7D3_k1SjvWcgjCVA5c4oOCbrS5YMHcFCNz6lSljYBEwbFIBSakR_ofpt-qAtI-t9_a97sPP5JUvCn4Y_nqaYjEsZa8P0HFeblzZHSssSNd1_n8/s400/Ixtlan2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391150628505454418" /></a><br />Okay, Okay, we're back. I've finally come out of my long travel slumber and am ready to return to Mexico. Well, I've actually been here for a few weeks, but it's time to get on with talking about it. What inspires this? Why riding of course! We are making a quick turn of Oaxaca's Sierra Juarez to tweak the details of our Journey to Ixtlan tour that we are promoting for January 2010 - which is coming up fast. <br /><br />After two years of bike touring inspired homelessness we've rented a spot to call home in Oaxaca. It needs a little TLC, but one of the main reasons we love it (apart from the garden and the terrace) is that 3km of pedalling has us plodding up into the steep folds of the very Sierra we are currently exploring - and I won't lie, those folds are steep. Fret not though, if you're thinking of joining us on tour, just for kicks and extra challenge right now we are riding the route backwards. Our intended route will go the other way round. <br /><br />There is something crisp and magical about getting away from people and up into the mountains. It's as if getting away from all the noise and cement of the city distills my focus down to what is truly important. It is a great way to clear your mind. It is also a great way to enjoy some simple but delicious grub. Mid climb we stop at Linda Vista to look back on the Valley of Oaxaca and to enjoy some trout and some of the tastiest tostadas I remember eating.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4WG6BlIdSVoMphyg0zug-M5bq9xkncL42G_leX8yZKflo8AQ40xd6pbg4VYv4bpWVtcRB3tZ8DgV2u87KvufjvxztWwPqXQqxF83I68h1P47l0V8nOCYenW8_3Fb5uUwTlmHtxMuZCs/s1600-h/Ixtlan3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4WG6BlIdSVoMphyg0zug-M5bq9xkncL42G_leX8yZKflo8AQ40xd6pbg4VYv4bpWVtcRB3tZ8DgV2u87KvufjvxztWwPqXQqxF83I68h1P47l0V8nOCYenW8_3Fb5uUwTlmHtxMuZCs/s400/Ixtlan3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391150617005287010" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKywDEil_VxBIb1wus__qXhPN08KiXW90dCMKX-cs_o9R1LXlcIqclUYmaKtxvDHl6Uem4QvdIcJqVUmv3j-Zapm08ACvilphEbd2DgoInNMze9mgzGC63x2SRtvOXfpzf6rELOkGRHc/s1600-h/Ixtlan5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKywDEil_VxBIb1wus__qXhPN08KiXW90dCMKX-cs_o9R1LXlcIqclUYmaKtxvDHl6Uem4QvdIcJqVUmv3j-Zapm08ACvilphEbd2DgoInNMze9mgzGC63x2SRtvOXfpzf6rELOkGRHc/s400/Ixtlan5.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391150605540728978" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-75648785331655414872009-10-08T07:15:00.000-07:002009-10-11T07:36:33.137-07:00Oaxacan Street Art<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Z0wF6p1kjCJpJ7127Y85SuzjViOUf7qj05xJ-Z9i5rB7Qx220f5dfZyzDwCdeV2ASdLBm0hFDYXr5tttaskyCyQVg_vq8wIESpsPj8AKqmb49pe5Jm5uoPkh9oVhsR2lImHJb8Nyk8A/s1600-h/jumble.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Z0wF6p1kjCJpJ7127Y85SuzjViOUf7qj05xJ-Z9i5rB7Qx220f5dfZyzDwCdeV2ASdLBm0hFDYXr5tttaskyCyQVg_vq8wIESpsPj8AKqmb49pe5Jm5uoPkh9oVhsR2lImHJb8Nyk8A/s400/jumble.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391350308475826018" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifR7Aw7iHvYTmAL_3yqDj4h1Nu3ziAsv_jAQOM7ImFz6KJZ1pNNVm6kCvRQ4Zs7tBGEzWHogIwBc0JvQ-s1B7PAeUZj4O3rfQMpkFJf-7GDoRZLkETGC_y363cOjRNqpX-uxMupjZ8pZw/s1600-h/doggrf.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifR7Aw7iHvYTmAL_3yqDj4h1Nu3ziAsv_jAQOM7ImFz6KJZ1pNNVm6kCvRQ4Zs7tBGEzWHogIwBc0JvQ-s1B7PAeUZj4O3rfQMpkFJf-7GDoRZLkETGC_y363cOjRNqpX-uxMupjZ8pZw/s400/doggrf.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391350300084689234" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSKn75jiuIYVDmhC2rxvQZ1_fQUka_a6OiGa5ixDpMWqMzNCOlcLJvZF7i-_s6RgM55EkeeViE_nBgToayUGMJlEF5FB3LqvDTc9cdsuIzH7f5pf99BNL0EwXn-wtWy84mKM2J3fTi0s/s1600-h/graff.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSKn75jiuIYVDmhC2rxvQZ1_fQUka_a6OiGa5ixDpMWqMzNCOlcLJvZF7i-_s6RgM55EkeeViE_nBgToayUGMJlEF5FB3LqvDTc9cdsuIzH7f5pf99BNL0EwXn-wtWy84mKM2J3fTi0s/s400/graff.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391350289270702418" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdrADCBRxEB9Dd9PxYs9ZraYS1F5UPqHdcwsuHpghzY1SNeM2BT0GYq-QKTGOT4v-ZoPfSuixJRqrgf5eabTlmTkTYTrpIVy7jv-OoR2HCNPpO-f8ClWqI0p5GvvXqSQTiXAAonhvDmc/s1600-h/heart.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtdrADCBRxEB9Dd9PxYs9ZraYS1F5UPqHdcwsuHpghzY1SNeM2BT0GYq-QKTGOT4v-ZoPfSuixJRqrgf5eabTlmTkTYTrpIVy7jv-OoR2HCNPpO-f8ClWqI0p5GvvXqSQTiXAAonhvDmc/s400/heart.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391350284797714738" /></a><br />If only all graffiti could be so interesting.Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-27458827424723513552009-07-07T07:14:00.000-07:002009-07-07T14:37:34.815-07:00What is going on in Mexico?I've been silent here for a while, but as our travels in <a href="http://bigfigpig.blogspot.com">Greece</a> wind down and my thoughts drift back to Mexico I have a few things to highlight...<br /><br /><a href="http://www.bikemexico.com/index.fear.html">Mexiphobia</a> is really on the rise this year. I arrived in <a href="http://www.bigfigpig.blogspot.com">Greece</a> just as the Swine Flu media frenzy exploded, and, with the amount of travelling I had just done, I have to admit that I felt a little unsettled about my potential exposure. However, as the brouhaha developed I became increasingly more and more annoyed. Basil did a little <a href="http://www.bikemexico.com/index.flu.html">research</a> and revealed that half a million people die every year because of the regular seasonal flu. Five million per year are hospitalized for severe symptoms. As the World Health Organization escalated the H1N1 virus to Pandemic level, tourism in Mexico plummeted yet the death rate for those catching this flu doesn't even come close to normal seasonal flu levels. The global death toll currently hovers around 300. At least the overzealous US fascination with the habits of Mexico's drug cartels has lost some of its media shimmer. I refer you to <a href="http://www.thetruthaboutmexico.com/">The Truth About Mexico</a> as a good resource addressing the Mexiphobia that is running rampant in the USA and Canada.<br /><br />Thanks to Shelly for forwarding this video about Swine Flu. This just made me grin and gave me hope for humanity.<br /><br /><object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/qT7LF8rSrlw&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/qT7LF8rSrlw&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object><br /><br />And last, but not least I'd like to just put forward a little 'food for thought'...<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5FBKeYXgm_w&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5FBKeYXgm_w&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> <br /><br />Maybe, just maybe H1N1 is a call to seriously pay attention to how our food is being produced. Could it be that our drive to produce cheaper and cheaper meat is making us sick? Surely it isn't just coincidence that Mexico's outbreak started next door to US owned Smithfield Corporation industrial pig farm. Between the toxic manure lakes and the dirty confined quarters these animals live in, perhaps the filth of our agri-greed is catching up with us in the form of H1N1. I love meat, but I'd happily eat less of it, pay more for it, and be proud to know my farmer was raising my food in a sustainable, healthy, and environmentally non-damaging manner.<br /><br />I'm not alone in this, Avaaz.org recently delivered a petition to the WHO in Geneva demanding global investigation and regulation of factory farms. The reaction of the WHO is interesting and can be read <a href=" http://www.avaaz.org/blog/en/w/pascal/2009/06./swine_flu_petition_delivery_to_the_who.php?cl=264090216&v=3472">here.</a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-81939161007738687192009-03-22T14:32:00.000-07:002009-03-22T14:46:55.280-07:00Mango!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSwvh_zCi18NUoc_dMDOYCz1utzyhTonBZy_gKi3lNrq0spU_M8pDbmk_q-CoqkSbGgj-p9RTc4BMGjpq-JkoefiO2ELXJM-2YDTWJbX5p214IqMz4bIi1sQ6nQJglKMgbd_rPKKuX7c/s1600-h/IM001809.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxSwvh_zCi18NUoc_dMDOYCz1utzyhTonBZy_gKi3lNrq0spU_M8pDbmk_q-CoqkSbGgj-p9RTc4BMGjpq-JkoefiO2ELXJM-2YDTWJbX5p214IqMz4bIi1sQ6nQJglKMgbd_rPKKuX7c/s400/IM001809.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5316128498294406226" /></a><br />All hail the marvelous mango! <br /><br />Mango season is in full swing and I feel obliged to make mention of this magical time of year for my dear friends who don't live in mango producing countries. These babies featured above are ataulfos - the king of mangodom - as far as I'm concerned and my fruitbowl is full of them. Yum!Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-82173403400868154582009-03-20T22:04:00.000-07:002009-03-20T23:02:39.861-07:00Mexican AdviceI've been quiet because I haven't been well. It is not uncommon for me to get sick at the end of a touring season. Sometimes I wonder if cycling keeps my immune system up. It seems that as soon as I stop for more than a few days some bug grabs me. I'm feeling better now and have enough energy to reflect on the all that has passed between the Yucatan and Chiapas.<br /><br />I love Mexican rotulos (painted signs on buildings), but, as a cyclist, this one was priceless especially because Rayon, Chiapas is a tiny little pristine village above the clouds on the road to Jitotol. The advice is still good.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6xkyLJNJ7NDQFGjhThddohJuKsQrSzuYfoZIu3k2SBEIVdcRqZzh4xQcKLNpt0zeVvi2G7AhXBzcJaU_CWsFL_MZ8xWI4fgkluehWkSoBfcpbV9TlzMbHw55fztfUJLfHfnnsr70Ap0/s1600-h/281463591_2e3QF-M.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY6xkyLJNJ7NDQFGjhThddohJuKsQrSzuYfoZIu3k2SBEIVdcRqZzh4xQcKLNpt0zeVvi2G7AhXBzcJaU_CWsFL_MZ8xWI4fgkluehWkSoBfcpbV9TlzMbHw55fztfUJLfHfnnsr70Ap0/s400/281463591_2e3QF-M.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5315514386323011378" /></a>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-70337083337307413222009-03-03T15:37:00.000-08:002009-03-20T11:52:30.596-07:00Coffee, Caracoles, and No Cameras!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyT6eWPShZ4UZT5ePpB8SveNqlVG-x_bHiG7xTcA9vIwVNVDpZQBqbgunDJGCwdczVaBrH37IV85nj2msCwzHcJqjbH14gpBbqiRpFm2aHDsUvwaJy5UtSZvMqtEaOYq5j6yTMJMdZlps/s1600-h/IMG_1203.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 224px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyT6eWPShZ4UZT5ePpB8SveNqlVG-x_bHiG7xTcA9vIwVNVDpZQBqbgunDJGCwdczVaBrH37IV85nj2msCwzHcJqjbH14gpBbqiRpFm2aHDsUvwaJy5UtSZvMqtEaOYq5j6yTMJMdZlps/s400/IMG_1203.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308393746453246658" /></a><br />It is hard to imagine that, only one day before, the mountains were lush with thick tropical foliage. Leaving the town of Jitotol for San Cristobal Chiapas, we are well into pine forests. We can see our breath, but the sun is shining, and, remembering our horrible hypothermic ride from last year, Basil and I say a little prayer of thanks for the lack of impending rain. This absence of rain allows us to enjoy watching the local villagers picking and drying coffee beans. The smell of the coffee fruit fermenting as we pedal through the villages is even more intoxicating than the landscape.<br /> <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjluiO_GMjvPC-auSHn0Dyrd187g370wdMbSGQtyXAVoqCJAQtaxe-puynLF0Bma0Wt3B5r0t2EANuD8yvDJMlXmBLOkFNeb16oyiqiVttR7wyzFacDin83MD67w_hslzVlvvhGRtZM6Ng/s1600-h/IMG_1217.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjluiO_GMjvPC-auSHn0Dyrd187g370wdMbSGQtyXAVoqCJAQtaxe-puynLF0Bma0Wt3B5r0t2EANuD8yvDJMlXmBLOkFNeb16oyiqiVttR7wyzFacDin83MD67w_hslzVlvvhGRtZM6Ng/s400/IMG_1217.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308393736236598578" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF3HxUkdZHcozpOQuUVx06ji5e2U6JPYz7BeZ3Jsn9V0v9j5mTj248cAfkpC_bHZI6XxPLcnXsyPTd0oZ2u04Q4CYnoEJ0gEDdK7Nu5ahOVW69ne46F-RkmR1YI921DaQuOUMYTC0QEhc/s1600-h/IMG_9378.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF3HxUkdZHcozpOQuUVx06ji5e2U6JPYz7BeZ3Jsn9V0v9j5mTj248cAfkpC_bHZI6XxPLcnXsyPTd0oZ2u04Q4CYnoEJ0gEDdK7Nu5ahOVW69ne46F-RkmR1YI921DaQuOUMYTC0QEhc/s400/IMG_9378.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308403248645683266" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIV7COaB_-tTipuQyQEyOKl9pWZAoZ3ufsMPmm3U40rrjNQAhDu1ugy1SRzOiaPqstJqSpt4kjEjgctUXvqkqdwXXNJaqB06jPlC9XVOQDPotZlHjO6UgH2gbnIrWVj6EMQ_Y9OoD9Ubg/s1600-h/281476163_z8Epo-L.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIV7COaB_-tTipuQyQEyOKl9pWZAoZ3ufsMPmm3U40rrjNQAhDu1ugy1SRzOiaPqstJqSpt4kjEjgctUXvqkqdwXXNJaqB06jPlC9XVOQDPotZlHjO6UgH2gbnIrWVj6EMQ_Y9OoD9Ubg/s400/281476163_z8Epo-L.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308406046920872178" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZZotNqvYPt0Ye2HQcReOPDJdgc2DWhEJg3Nh0jmvdLNGkH1fAPT_78Qr1OvPs2LeuEcxmVILQcp9BCfmf40Y-rICGIdrG4tUDndFD-zMrml6TI4tMYan9BH2TukWEYR8DkO9FgRkhSw/s1600-h/IMG_1213.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNZZotNqvYPt0Ye2HQcReOPDJdgc2DWhEJg3Nh0jmvdLNGkH1fAPT_78Qr1OvPs2LeuEcxmVILQcp9BCfmf40Y-rICGIdrG4tUDndFD-zMrml6TI4tMYan9BH2TukWEYR8DkO9FgRkhSw/s400/IMG_1213.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308389630010411282" /></a><br />As we pedal our way higher into Chiapas, the people become a little less friendly, and somewhat suspicious. Passing two military camps in less than 30km it's easy to imagine why. We arrive at Oventik or Caracol Cinco, which, to describe it in overly simplified terms, is one of five centres for Zapatista good government councils. Each centre is structured to represent it's surrounding Zapatista indigenous communities and the effort is to supply them with fair local autonomous government. These centres are called caracoles because historically the caracol (conch shell) represented autonomous gatherings. The shell was blown into to summon meetings. If you're interested there is a lot more info about Zapatistas and their Caracoles <a href="http://www.stateofnature.org/theZapatistaCaracoles.html">here </a>.<br /><br />What we see as we saunter into Oventik or Caracol 5 are colourful zapatista themed murals and a small shop selling zapatista paraphanelia, some daily foodstuffs, and coffee and light snacks. The place teems with "intellectual" European tourists out to support the rebel cause with their small wire-rimmed glasses, cargo pants, multi-pocketed vests, hiking boots, and either a laptop or obscenely large camera. Service is slow and smile-free.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3HeEAqjRQCOX4gK6P9uWaABdqgyouyBvCbJv9qKmuA81x9_yZ_cvmxzv5yxoQy3y8CgclHY3E3QQPg2RMidPdZwJeYNF5QIQYKu0oIMZbBBI8PbMe__brUlrXJdhhznMcEhesjwgZOj4/s1600-h/IMG_1230.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3HeEAqjRQCOX4gK6P9uWaABdqgyouyBvCbJv9qKmuA81x9_yZ_cvmxzv5yxoQy3y8CgclHY3E3QQPg2RMidPdZwJeYNF5QIQYKu0oIMZbBBI8PbMe__brUlrXJdhhznMcEhesjwgZOj4/s400/IMG_1230.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308389622007878770" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZlQQuhLn8GiFttgy2Ay3z62Dcmp5ihfyNXFlGCjcUGJva3iZx0jEOji3X3SRAc9TD-azZLDU2-r0cfo1-Asxb1HjhBAjaES3yNL6w1-5NWWrqobBxlRoC1A-VxvnETdq_6jKcBTQfPI/s1600-h/IMG_1229.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZlQQuhLn8GiFttgy2Ay3z62Dcmp5ihfyNXFlGCjcUGJva3iZx0jEOji3X3SRAc9TD-azZLDU2-r0cfo1-Asxb1HjhBAjaES3yNL6w1-5NWWrqobBxlRoC1A-VxvnETdq_6jKcBTQfPI/s400/IMG_1229.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308389623038090002" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lh6caDNgBLBCtMj0T4_HQZK65Ouuuvm02H0TaaAoWwORpnAm4q6MTXqs8nNMbgCTMzUaNgdjdjaUqWfIPPxJeLol_L3Lhyphenhyphenq1oHLjlB8xpsgorlIopKUmtAL2oRq6yxphK9K16uVuDBY/s1600-h/IMG_1231.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lh6caDNgBLBCtMj0T4_HQZK65Ouuuvm02H0TaaAoWwORpnAm4q6MTXqs8nNMbgCTMzUaNgdjdjaUqWfIPPxJeLol_L3Lhyphenhyphenq1oHLjlB8xpsgorlIopKUmtAL2oRq6yxphK9K16uVuDBY/s400/IMG_1231.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308389616899873570" /></a><br />Climbing to Oventik was pretty darn steep, but there is more than half the ride to San Cristobal left. The steepness eases off, but the climbing continues past Chamula ladies in thick furry skirts who are unfazed by our presence. They sit stoically, scarves piled atop their heads, watching their sheep. Occasionally one of them kneels with a small loom weaving the wool from the same sheep that graze nearby. <br /><br />I wave and no one waves back. It is the only place in Mexico where we are almost invisible in our bright colours and spandex. We've warned the group that nearing San Cristobal it is strictly taboo to take pictures of the very interesting costumes and customs that we will cross paths with. The locals will take your camera. Sometimes the language barrier and the temptation prove to be too much. Fortunately these revelers were only half in the bag and were in good enough spirits to demand money in return for the camera offense of one of our fellow cyclists:<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GE3yOm052X8&hl=es&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GE3yOm052X8&hl=es&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1033145748437314004.post-58499931171427103172009-03-01T11:48:00.000-08:002009-03-20T11:54:08.846-07:00Carnival Jitotol<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigsxqBY1fLAgrcfyu0tXklRS0CiXsfDS7ZVSmyosSeSgHIsZDW9GF2B1A0I9HGgQ4b6dwuyCESvQWXt5rLf3y1jF8JcNvlvUyopxkCXzL7l38Ian1heRxiutC2To7TXVJWCcsMdkHXr8/s1600-h/IMG_1066.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhigsxqBY1fLAgrcfyu0tXklRS0CiXsfDS7ZVSmyosSeSgHIsZDW9GF2B1A0I9HGgQ4b6dwuyCESvQWXt5rLf3y1jF8JcNvlvUyopxkCXzL7l38Ian1heRxiutC2To7TXVJWCcsMdkHXr8/s400/IMG_1066.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308333361199564210" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPJY8Ib0dRey3CPP1gRE9np_MmQCbxdjTEj3XGN-jOqquNli8RztB0pcO5gNsOfCcl21Cp2kJGl7rcBsRTY88nQzEOn4aBHQl2vJDCFVJ207b1W9MfFvUX-GAH-8VcCxdynDKB-mWfGI/s1600-h/IMG_1069.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCPJY8Ib0dRey3CPP1gRE9np_MmQCbxdjTEj3XGN-jOqquNli8RztB0pcO5gNsOfCcl21Cp2kJGl7rcBsRTY88nQzEOn4aBHQl2vJDCFVJ207b1W9MfFvUX-GAH-8VcCxdynDKB-mWfGI/s400/IMG_1069.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308333372167037058" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4EX6HLObB2CKYDnVuZpfmr4amWzNDYpXL4eEC5GZDD4NowXhruWuyGdyJgAzqaPhvgLYcm4p09KOcNryFG6UA-hRo-HHkb7gOcdUfYkzGWyDfjG9_ifdnPVjds6GOy4ccjXMEHvNqTM/s1600-h/IMG_1068.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4EX6HLObB2CKYDnVuZpfmr4amWzNDYpXL4eEC5GZDD4NowXhruWuyGdyJgAzqaPhvgLYcm4p09KOcNryFG6UA-hRo-HHkb7gOcdUfYkzGWyDfjG9_ifdnPVjds6GOy4ccjXMEHvNqTM/s400/IMG_1068.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308333367847113986" /></a><br />It has rained the better part of the day only occasionally clearing to briefly offer up some rewarding view in exchange for all our hard work. Imagine if, when you finally roll into town and settle in to your humble digs in this far away Mexican mountain town, you see something like this go by your window:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0W1eEnPCGlnTVa-175DgXdgaCZ2PV2aiAq7ZrhyphenhyphenHUU4mt1omoe7MlsIAn46nlEfxjEYxGEuRYD5a3t0avaJSLXP6D55JTV1am0JPpxku2Eql7yHYn3fifeI_dAg_k__p_AYIFwuD1yw/s1600-h/IMG_1159.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr0W1eEnPCGlnTVa-175DgXdgaCZ2PV2aiAq7ZrhyphenhyphenHUU4mt1omoe7MlsIAn46nlEfxjEYxGEuRYD5a3t0avaJSLXP6D55JTV1am0JPpxku2Eql7yHYn3fifeI_dAg_k__p_AYIFwuD1yw/s400/IMG_1159.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308327684062094722" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeLzVr7Tl0qhQd_aRFRQ56XEuSxvOkZ6HWTZK6l0_76urN2goFfEbcHeAK-w7cILPnp6J7I7gKscFPk0zsvnPz3Fi1J-C_tI7uMHKfYKOa3XBOhY6_p1hSHxcsX-Xrdyb5a6sUH4dPUE/s1600-h/IMG_1165.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoeLzVr7Tl0qhQd_aRFRQ56XEuSxvOkZ6HWTZK6l0_76urN2goFfEbcHeAK-w7cILPnp6J7I7gKscFPk0zsvnPz3Fi1J-C_tI7uMHKfYKOa3XBOhY6_p1hSHxcsX-Xrdyb5a6sUH4dPUE/s400/IMG_1165.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308333352176901746" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvlsROWu4m64b7H5J9NH_GvquWKmRKksRT9EsOf48eSPIx0DjzQ51UaBm6VwOQ1C8op6eXY9UQ6-CvBbpLzXIbA9ubxSwwZwPm9ELGO2clQP4xsnWmd8x40GaMcs5iGcm5vZY79yPYkHA/s1600-h/IMG_1180.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvlsROWu4m64b7H5J9NH_GvquWKmRKksRT9EsOf48eSPIx0DjzQ51UaBm6VwOQ1C8op6eXY9UQ6-CvBbpLzXIbA9ubxSwwZwPm9ELGO2clQP4xsnWmd8x40GaMcs5iGcm5vZY79yPYkHA/s400/IMG_1180.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5308327703798173394" /></a><br />Naturally you are intrigued so you follow it to the main square where the whole town has gathered for this final day of carnival. The costumed revellers mill akwardly about the centre of the town's square in front of a live band that has set up especially for the occasion. There is no commercialism here. Pure fantasy and tradition and one man with fireworks on his back.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ArRkumut7yU&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ArRkumut7yU&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>Alexandrahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01278919899332489562noreply@blogger.com0