Chilate Goddess Guadalupe

For years I thought Zihuatanejo had one of the most pitiful markets for a city its size. That was until I discovered the REAL market in the farthest reaches of Zihua's sprawling web of market streets. The real market is where all the bits and pieces of what's in season or being freshly prepared in the hills of Guerrero are gathered to sell. What took us there and continues to bring us back to this special street is Guadalupe the Goddess of Chilate.

There are countless ancient beverages prepared all over Mexico and bit by bit we are learning about the subtle nuances of each one. Chilate is a popular refreshing beverage prepared along Mexico's Costa Chica which lies to the south of Acapulco. Thanks to Guadalupe we became acquainted with this rich and nourishing drink in the back alleys of Zihuatanejo. Her chilate is made of ground rice, cacao beans, cinnamon, and sugar. The key to a good chilate is producing a lovely fatty foam of the cocoa butter which really comes out when repeatedly pouring it from on high. The end result: icy cold and dee-lish!

Gracias Guadalupe Goddess of Chilate!

I love Bizihuanas

The "best" bike shop in Mexico happens to be in Zihuatanejo. I might be exaggerating a little as I have far from seen all Mexican bike shops, but I have seen a good many. And, while it's true, I have most recently found the "best stocked" bike shop in Mexico to be in Oaxaca City, the "best" bike shop in Mexico continues to be in Zihuatanejo.

In the spring of 2007, Alejandro significantly amplified his business offering full service repair, a wide of inventory, and mountain bike rentals and tours of all levels. While he has or can get most anything a cyclist might need or want, the most valuable part of his bike shop is his gifted mechanical ability, quick smile, irresistible personality, and his charming wife Lucy who quietly provides the glue that holds the whole show together. Together they are quickly growing the sport of cycling in the Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo area.

If you're in the Zihuatanejo area, stop by Bizihuanas to say hello. Alejandro speaks fluent English and is well-versed in road cycling, mountain biking, and bike touring. His shop can be found at 39 Calle Cuauhtemoc which starts out as a pedestrian street and runs up from the sea-side basketball court (which doubles as town square). Walking in this direction he is on the left hand side. Tell him Cactus Flower sent you.

Arriving Zihuatanejo

From surfer's paradise in Playa Nexpa to Shark Attack zone between Troncones and Playa Linda, surfers arriving to this stretch of Mexico have much to dream about and be wary of.

In Lazaro Cardenas, the local cycling representatives hosted us in a lovely taco feast and then joined us on the early part of our early morning ride out of town. Eli brought along his cycling gifted, long-legged son who dreams of being a downhiller. We enjoyed their company for the first 20 kms before they turned back to their daily routines and we turned forward doing our best to stay ahead of the heat. Our efforts paid off. Before we knew it we were admiring the coconut groves of Playa Linda and meandering our way over one last seemingly endless coastal hill into the hustle bustle of my former home Zihuatanejo

Views of the Pacific

Down zee hill, over zee bridge, uuup zee hill (deep breath in) down zee hill, over zee bridge, uuup zee hill...

This is how Len summarized the 96km ride between Maruata and Nexpa. Now, Len wasn't feeling well and so, for him, this day lacked a little of the regular sparkle it usually has, but his words do accurately describe the see-saw start out of Maruata. However, what he doesn't describe is the explosion of white flowers of the bocote trees which fill the all encompassing forest that engulfs this sinew of Highway 200, he doesn't describe the magpie jays that race alongside as you rhythmically plod along, the scurry of startled lizards in the scratchy dry leaves that fill the shoulder, and the buzz of a full band of roadside cicadas that wax and wane their enthusiasm like baseball fans doing the wave at Yankee stadium. He also neglects to highlight that this day has some of the most arresting views of the Pacific in Mexico.

Anti-Club Med Maruata

Ah, Maruata...

Paradise for many and hell for more precious travellers. If the hotel makes your vacation, then Maruata isn't for you. If outstanding wild beauty and living with the natives intrigues you then Maruata throws you in whole hog. Staying in simple palapas (thatched roughly hewn wooden structures) in the midst of Nahuatl (Aztec descendants) homesteads you are likely to meet Grandma having a bath at the pila (local wash basin) on your way to a reluctant rendition of a western bathroom.

Maruata is well outside capitalistic and mainstream Mexico. Her beaches are stunning, the rocks worthy of a good scramble, and boat trips take you up the remote coastline. With a tiny amount of luck you might see grey whales migrating, or sea turtles mating, or manta rays jumping. A ramble up Maruata's longest beach is sure to reveal countless turtle tracks leading to sandy nests jam-packed with eggs. A conservation program works hard to save these vulnerable critters. Even with the extra effort of humans they estimate that 1 in 100 turtles born makes it to reproductive age.

Check the refrigerator in town for a tasty all natural yoghurt drink from the interior of Michoacan state. Don't hesitate to buy a litre and if they have mango buy two.

El Faro

There is a place that I like to go to when I need to drift away from where ever I am. For me it is the perfect place to get completely away from it all and fortunately it is not an imaginary place, but a real live place that I have had the pleasure of visiting several times. This place calls itself El Faro after the lighthouse that sits atop the far end of her gloriously golden beach. 3km of cement road whisks you away from highway 200 to a ramshackle collection of cinder block houses and palapas and two or three corner stores filled with mistreated produce and a huge assortment of packaged goods, but this is not what you come for.

You come for the unspoiled chicle sand that slopes dramatically down to tall waves that break hard and pull you into a steady tumble if you don't time your entrance into the water just right. Once in you are quickly rushed by schools of surgeon and goat fish or carefully inspected by darting sargent majors. Pay attention to the whirling pools of yellow foam that upon closer inspection reveal themselves to be thousands of tiny prawn-like creatures.

You also come to visit with Angelita and her family who graciously produce delicious hand-made tortillas while Guero the yellow-headed parrot looks on. Life is slow and simple.

Queen of the Court

It would be easy to breeze on through La Placita (The Court) without batting an eye, but you'd be missing a bike touring gem: La Reyna (the queen) Hotel the home and hotel of Humberto and Maxine. What makes this a gem? Humberto used to race bikes back in the 60's and the yearly visits of our little band of cyclists along with the many other bike tourists who make their way down the Pan Am every year has revived his passion for cycling. He has a wall devoted to his adventures and thoroughly savours his occasional visits from bike tourists. Together with his wife they run a quirky and lovingly maintained little hotel. There are always plenty of interesting fowl pecking their way around the yard and Maxine has my dream outdoor kitchen.

Ask Humberto to ride with you down the coast a distance and I'll bet you he can't resist...

Sandstone Guadalupe

Heading straight away from Tecoman across the flat hot Colima coastal plain, lime trees give way to banana trees, the state of Colima gives way to Michoacan, and hot flats give way to growing hills. Our trip takes a turn into a much more remote stretch of coast.

Past La Placita the land is ejido land. It is communally owned by the Nahuatl people (descendants of the Aztecs). All decisions about the lands are made by the community. For over 100 km development is little more than some small scatterings of palapas (thatched structures), small cinder block buildings, and a few randomly supplied corner stores. Life is focused mainly around the sea and on the weekend and holiday crowds that rush to the beach to escape the chilly interior of Mexico. Life moves at an entirely different pace here. Our first sampling of this is having a sloooow breakfast while lounging under an enramada at Playa San Telmo. This little beach is home to one of my favourite Guadalupe shrines in the country.

November brings the eagle, sting, and manta rays in close to shore and at this beach they are always active. This year while swimming the manta rays were soaring below and leaping out of the water all around us. It's not exactly a comfortable feeling when the waves are rough and the visibility is less than clear. Always shuffle your feet on entering and leaving this beach it gives any stingrays that might be resting in the sand the warning they need to clear out of your way.

Breakfast in Paradise

The road to Paradise winds lazily away from the Manzanillo toll road through forgotten coconut groves. Traffic is light and unhurried and sometimes lingers curiously behind us just to observe the circus of pasty pink cyclists on heavily laden bicycles making their way through their land. With any luck, while relaxing after breakfast, you might get to see Ferdinand the mellowest bull in Mexico out for a morning stroll on the beach.

Camarones a la Diabla

One of Basil's favourite and much anticipated dishes comes from the Manzanillo market. Above is a photo of the ultimate shrimp feast after a hot and meandering bike ride into Manzanillo's bustling centre past her lengthy resort strip and impressive container-filled cargo port. In spite of being Mexico's largest port, Manzanillo ranks in the top 5 for cleanest beaches in the country. It is also the sailfish capital of the world, but we come for the swimming and the shrimp.

Try Tejuino

There is a deliciously refreshing corn drink sold in markets along the coast called Tejuino. It's base is corn masa (the same stuff that makes up tortillas) it is then mixed with water and raw sugar, boiled to a thick consistency and lightly fermented. When preparing it to drink it is mixed with ice, water, lime, chile and a dash of salt. The key in preparing many pre-hispanic beverages includes pouring the beverage from on high several times to aerate it. The end result: some of the planet's best gatorade! Look for tejuino vendors in Barra de Navidad and kick back, relax, and rehydrate...

Barra - ahhhh...

As you make your way south along highway 200 you crest a hill and cross a series of speed bumps to find yourself in the town named for Mexico's revolutionary great, Emiliano Zapata. This region is particularly loyal to it's revolutionary figures as nestled up along side Emiliano is a town named for his compadre to the north, Francisco "Pancho" Villa. It is befitting that we stop here for breakfast the day before Mexico's "Dia de la Revolucion" or Revolution Day.

The town of Emiliano Zapata has a little known secret...there is lady who makes some of the best hand-made tortillas on the coast. The family's grandson is playing in the secret which lies behind our table in a heap on the floor. Behind that heap sits a pile of empty cobs that once held that heap and somewhere way behind that grows the family tended milpa or corn field that is the source of it all.



Coconuts and crocodiles's make up our next stop before our long lingering climb and descent into our much awaited rest day in Barra de Navidad.

Peter's Pearl of the Pacific

Thanks to Peter, who was being pushed to the extremes of guinea pigdom by his exuberant first-time guide, Punta Perula was discovered. Remote and dusty this town is perfect for lazing under palm fronds and eating the best shrimp ceviche you will ever find. If you aren't in the water chasing dolphins or manta rays, Mariscos Chee Chee is the place to be.